Carl F. Bucherer kicked off a roadshow in Munich last week that is relaunching the brand as an upmarket competitor in the $7,000 to $9,000 price segment.
The “Exploring Time” roadshow aims to introduce press and retail partners to a fresh line-up of its classical, complex and urban-styled Manero watches that will start hitting stores in September.
CFB, initials that Carl F. Bucherer brand executives seemed keen to use in Munich, is also trimming its catalogue from over 300 references to around 120.
A spokesperson told WatchPro this would mean withdrawing watches that currently compete with the likes of Longines, Tissot and Baume & Mercier.
While this year and next will be mostly about the revamped Manero line, the company says it will concentrate from 2025 onwards on similar overhauls for its Patravi line of divers and sports models and its Heritage family, which revives classic pieces from CFB the archive.
Carl F. Bucherer was launched by the Bucherer family of jewellers in 1888, and remains the only Swiss watch manufacturer still owned and led by its founding family.
Its watches are sold through 56 Bucherer showrooms in Europe and the United States, along with a wholesale operation that currently serves a global network of around 350 retail partners.
The United States is CFB’s largest wholesale market with around 50 doors.
As part of the relaunch, CFB says it aims to reduce its worldwide points of sale to around 260.
It will still be present in all current markets, but its remaining doors will have greater exclusivity, which the company hopes will encourage retailers to invest in the brand.
A new retail concept, which can be adapted for shop-in-shops, will be unveiled early in 2024.
The 360 degree strategy is designed to elevate CFB so that it is spoken about in the same conversations as an IWC or Jaeger-LeCoultre.
It will continue to offer watches with outsourced movements, but will devote more energy to haute horlogerie watches using its range of manufacture calibers which include top end complications such as tourbillons and minute repeaters.
“We will have a new workshop specifically for artisans and haute horlogerie watchmakers,” a spokesperson revealed.
A signature expression of CFB’s manufacturing is the peripheral rotor, a bidirectional oscillating weight that circles the outer edge of some movements so that more of the decoratively finished components and bridges can be seen through exhibition case backs.
It was first launched in 2008 with the CFB A1000 and is now found in a range of Manero watches including a tourbillon and minute repeater.
CFB kicked of its 135th anniversary this year with a capsule collection of five all-black watches; four Maneros and one Heritage piece.
These were followed by a trio of floating tourbillon minute repeaters described by the company as the pinnacle of its prowess and a powerful expression of its rich history, engineering talent and pioneering spirit.
Each was a unique one-of-one watch that collectively demonstrated a broad range of watchmaking, finishing and jeweller’s skills.
Carl F. Bucherer marks 135th anniversary with trio of floating tourbillon minute repeaters
September will see the introduction of this year’s core collection Manero watches, with other drops scheduled for the remainder of 2024.
Manero Peripheral
For everyday wear, CFB is introducing a family of steel-on-steel automatics with central hours and minutes hands, date and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock in a range of colours.
Manero Central Counter
This chronograph is updated for 2023 with a choice of dials in four nature-inspired colours that provide a fresh look.
Combining style with utility, stainless steel cases are paired with diamond-like carbon-coated bezels and hybrid rubber straps for a ruggedised appearance.
Launch: October 2023
Manero Minute Repeater Anniversary
The sheer intricacy of these triple peripheral timepieces – CFB’s most accomplished technical designs – is now combined with contemporary, stand-out colourways in bold blue, green, and purple, and colour-matched oscillating weights visible through the case backs.
These three unique pieces’ rebellious energy catapults CFB into a new chapter of haute horlogerie.
Launch: December 2023
Great move by Carl F. Bucherer, given Economies of Scale, and Pareto’s Law, the execution of this should be seemless, as their doubling the Factor # @ 120, instead of 60, with the reality that only a select % of the population is aware of them, despite the Retail footprint, this allows for better saturation, in better environments by more selective distribution, targeting their competition while enhancing their image by neighborhood concurrently. With the right Team, this will be successful long-term.