Since walking away from Baselworld in 2018, Swatch Group has been unwavering in his belief that global trade fairs have had their day.
The pandemic did nothing to shift the group’s position and, despite the return of Watches and Wonders in Geneva earlier this year, there is no sign that its watchmaking maisons will be participating in any future shows.
Breguet was present in Geneva because it had launched a new novelty within its Marine collection just a few weeks earlier.
This was a positive turn of events for Breguet’s CEO Lionel a Marca, who was happy to be able to see people again after the pandemic. Mr. Marca, who’s been CEO for one year, said “A return to human relationships with face-to-face exchanges is very welcome,” he said.
“Obviously, trade shows are still being set up and several brands are participating,” Mr Marca continued. “I think that this formula can be totally appropriate for certain brands. For my part, I prefer to rely on presentations of our new products in different parts of the world throughout the year. Getting closer to journalists and end customers in terms of distance by going to see them in their countries is very much appreciated by our partners, and we want to continue in this direction.”
The discussion formed part of a wider conversation about product, his position as CEO and economic impact:
WP: How does your background as a watchmaker help you with your new position as a CEO?
LaM: This “double hat” makes it easier for me to have a global vision of both the development of new products and how they can be highlighted in terms of their marketing. Since the start of my career, I have indeed gone through all the stages: from designing movements to managing production – managing not only the consistency of the collections, but also the teams producing them.
Another very inspiring aspect for me is to be able to work alongside Mr. Marc A. Hayek for 20 years. His knowledge of the products, the technique, and his vision reinforce my knowledge day after day; for which I am grateful to him. All this allows me to realize both the set of tenants and outcomes linked to production, as well as the overall strategy of a brand. Today, my objective is to use all this know-how to perpetuate the legacy of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s work.
WP: Tell us more about the new Marine Hora Mundi?
LaM: The Hora Mundi complication was released in the Classique collection in 2011. In 2022, we wanted to create a Hora Mundi within the Marine collection. It seemed logical to us to bring a travel watch into this collection that is both sporty and contemporary. Our goal on this new Hora Mundi was to create a 3D effect; a depth on the dial.
Beyond realism, we also want to be able to offer great readability. To do this, we played on the superposition of different plates. The first, made of gold, is composed of hand-guilloché waves while displaying a sunburst dial, using light reflections to give a feeling of rolling waves. Then, an additional plate made of sapphire is composed of the metallic meridians. The continents benefit from a horizontal satin treatment and their coastlines are subtly drawn with a metallic turquoise border.
Finally, an outer flange maintains the various elements presented on the dial. A result with perfectly executed dimensions and surfaces thanks to various treatments that required several weeks of work. It is this clever mix of perspectives and details that makes this timepiece so special.
WP: And the added GMT?
LaM: Indeed, it is a GMT with memory and instantaneous change. The wearer can set the city, the hour and the date of the first time zone and then, thanks to a system of cams & differentials, the calculation of the time and the date of the second zone is done automatically.
Finally, with a simple click on the pusher, you switch from a city to the other. I particularly like this complication because despite its complexity, it is very simple to use for the owner of the watch. With this type of watch we are typically in the spirit of what Abraham-Louis Breguet created.
WP: From a more economic aspect: how has the situation of Covid in Asia affected your brand?
LaM: From the point of view of Covid, it is obvious that 2020 was not an easy year for anyone. In 2021, we’ve evolved in each country as the different markets have organized themselves according to the possibilities, allowing us to make 2021 a very good year in terms of production, sales, and strategizing for the future.
WP: Were the watch collectors active during this period?
LaM: Yes, and the great strength of Breguet is that they are not localized in one region of the world. We have sold major pieces to collectors in Korea, Japan, China, but also in Europe. Our brand has a long history, so people know us.
In our stores and retailers, our goal is to provide exceptional service no matter where in the world we are, and that’s an important requirement for me that I follow very closely.
WP: What is your strategy with the Breguet offering, to satisfy current customers and conquering future generations of buyers?
LaM: Several elements come into play. With the background I have, it is essential for me to have a coherent organization in terms of project and product development planning. I don’t want to shorten the necessary time of the production process in order to launch a maximum number of pieces, or to match certain trends.
Breguet is a brand of excellence, and it is essential that when we put a timepiece on the market, it corresponds to our very high quality standards – as do those of our customers. It would be unthinkable for us not to meet our mutual requirements. My wish is also to keep our 6 collections because they are all very complementary and correspond to different styles and desires. For example, the Tradition line – which is the watch I wear – highlights the origins of the brand thanks to its movement which is inspired by tacts and subscription watches. Now, when we talk about the new generation that is interested in watchmaking, they need to understand the story behind the brand when they buy a timepiece.
To have a heritage like Breguet’s is a real opportunity: Abraham-Louis Breguet was an avant-garde technician, watchmaker, and designer who created some of the fundamentals of today’s watchmaking.
He was also a man who imagined innovative watches – but above all – simple to use, useful, and practical. It’s up to us to live up to this! Our goal is to work on this heritage while continuing to innovate. This is why we invest a lot in our R&D department, which I can assure you is full of ideas.
