Launched in 2008, Perlée – translating as ‘beaded’ – has become a signature Van Cleef & Arpels collection.
The technique of jewellery decorated with hundreds of tiny gold balls was first used by the house in the 1920s, initially as a way to highlight gem-setting or to establish borders. However, in the late 1940s it became a design in its own right, adding interest to other families of jewels from Couscous and Bagatelle through to the bright and bold 1960s Twist and Alhambra ranges.
Now, five new timepieces have joined the necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and watches of Perlée. Combining several specialties of the house, the tiny and elegant watches feature a double row of golden beads surrounding guillochéd dials of mother-of-pearl, onyx or gold. While four of the pieces are 23mm, the fifth is a more substantial 30mm.
The streamlined cases of these quartz-powered pieces is uninterrupted by a winding crown, with time being set via a push-button on the caseback. Each watch is supplied with two quick-change straps. There is also an optional articulated bracelet made up of the tiny golden spheres.
In addition to the above quintet, VC&A has also created three secret watches reminiscent of its romantic toi et moi jewellery. Set on open cuffs, made up of rows of golden beads, the mother-of-pearl watch dials are hidden by swivelling covers of ornamental stone while a second stone cabochon adorns the bangle. Red carnelian is paired with black pietersite, and blue-green turquoise meets fiery coral or brilliant diamond.
The golden beads are cast and polished by hand in Van Cleef & Arpels’ French workshops, while the dials and movements are assembled in the company’s Swiss workshops. Prices start from £7,800/ USD9,000.
