Chairman of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, Roger Smith, tells WatchPro that he has full faith in the resurgence of the UK’s watchmaking industry and explains why he will be leading by example and offering a unique Series 1 for sale at British Watchmakers’ Day on March 9.
“It’s been almost five years since the initial idea for British Watchmakers’ Day. It was actually inspired by Record Store Day, which was an idea for regenerating the vinyl industry. So, we will have one day and the idea is that people will bring along unique and special watches to sell on that day only.
When we launched the Alliance three years ago, we thought we may get a dozen trade members and here we are with more than 40 exhibiting at our first show. It’s very exciting. A good number of them are making special edition watches for the day – including me.
We knew that this was coming up, so we started making this over a year ago. We are still completing it but it’s going to be ready very soon. We were asking other members to make pieces so we had to lead by example – that was always the case no matter what. Why should anyone else bother doing it if we thought we were too grand for it?
The problem was, how were we going to sell the watch. After some discussion, we decided we would basically have an auction whereby people submit their bids in advance of the day. Then, at 3pm on British Watchmakers’ Day, bidding will close and the watch will hopefully be going to a new owner.
The watch has a reserve price of £297,500 and a chunk of the profit from the sale will be donated to the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers
Roger Smith
The watch has a reserve price of £297,500 (ex. VAT) and a chunk of the profit from the sale will be donated to the Alliance. We’re a not-for-profit organisation and so we need money to keep it going and I hope all of the people who are currently waiting for a Roger W. Smith watch will see the sale in the right light.
Roger Smith’s website will host the auction, which will open on Monday, February 19.
This is the first watch that has ever been available to the public.
Every single watch since day one has always been made for a client and none have ever been offered for direct sale, so this is really a once in a lifetime opportunity.
You know, I designed this watch for myself. This was the first opportunity I’ve had in many, many years to actually think ‘Well, what would I like? What would be my perfect specification for a watch?’ So that’s been great.
It’s a Series 1 with a 38mm round red-gold case – I think I’ve designed all of my watches to be in red gold – with a silver and gold engine turned dial, Roman numerals and red-gold hands.
And the movement has a unique design that we’ve not done before – it features an English rose design on the barrel bridge. It’s very simple and that’s what I like – something understated. You know, that’s how I’ve always envisaged these watches, really. Some people do like to modify them a little bit, which I’m happy with. But for me, I would just keep it simple and straightforward.
The watch will be on show at British Watchmakers’ Day on March 9. And there will be three other pieces there too. The GREAT Britain, a George Daniels Anniversary in white gold and a Series 4 with ‘Travelling Date’ complication.
I’m looking forward to meeting as many of our trade members as possible on the day – this will be the first time that many of us will have the chance to physically meet. So, I’m really keen to go and speak to all these watchmakers find out their stories, to learn more about what they’re doing and trying to do and finding out why they got into watchmaking. From what I’ve seen, everyone has a unique story and I’m just keen to explore that and get to know a few more people.
It’s always interesting to see the watches, but I really like the business side and seeing this trade grow so, I want to focus in on the people and hear about the good and bad of what they’re trying to achieve and find out how we can help more.
There is a lot that I am looking forward to. I’ve seen some pictures of the Duckworth Prestex watch and I’m looking forward to seeing that in the metal. I know Fears is also making something quite special and I’m hoping Mr. Jones will have something special, too.
Then Sidereus – I’ve never actually handled one of those pieces, but I believe they are doing something unique and there’s something quite intriguing about those watches. Schofield, William Wood and Vertex… so many good things to see!
If everything goes to plan, I see no reason why it shouldn’t happen again next year – that was always the goal, for this to be an annual event. That’s why I want to speak to people. We may not have done everything perfectly this first time around, but at least we’re hitting the ground running and this is something big and to be celebrated.
I really think that today in Britain we’re having a bit of a rebirth and a reimagining of what British watchmaking can be. I think there’s a certain sector that very much wants to stay in the world of 18th- and 19th-century watchmaking, but we need to remember that Britain lost its watchmaking industry because of that very approach.
Today we’ve got companies like Christopher Ward, where the driving force is very much in Britain, but they realised the limitations of making watches in the UK where we have lost the core knowledge. And so they have sought very talented people in Switzerland to help realise their dreams and ambitions.
Watches like the Bel Canto are a shout out to everyone and a big wake up call for people in so-called watchmaking hubs. They show what is going on here and that there’s some real British watchmaking talent. And yeah, the rest of the world is starting to take notice.
It is early days, but we are hopeful that this will grow and develop into something. This is just the start really. It is very exciting.”
The British Watchmakers’ Day takes place on March 9 in London.
