When Patek Philippe’s president Thierry Stern announced the discontinuation of the Nautilus ref. 5711 in 2021, he followed up by saying that he had other ideas already in place – one of them being a brand-new collection created from scratch.
However, few people could have anticipated that, just as he gave a more formal look to the Nautilus with the white-gold ref. 5811, he was thinking of bringing a sportier aesthetic to the brand’s evergreen dress classic, the Calatrava.
Yet that is exactly what he has done with three new references launched today. On paper, they shouldn’t work – white gold cases, jet-black, embossed ‘carbon’ patterned dials, and primary coloured accents – yet in the metal, this trio of ultra-contemporary timepieces are as gorgeous as they are multi-purpose (appropriate from boardroom to bar).
It is true that the Calatrava, in the nine decades since it was launched, has seen a huge number of iterations in different sizes and with a multitude of functions and complications, always retaining an air of elegance and sophistication. But the three new references bring a completely new look to the watch – and one that is sure to appeal to a whole new clientele, in addition to existing collectors.
As with so many uber-creative Patek Philippe designs, the models are known only by their reference numbers: 6007G-001 (yellow), 6007G-010 (red) and 6007G-011 (blue).
While one could be forgiven for thinking that the case is steel, it is actually white gold, a wonderful contrast to the graphic dial that is made up of three different finishes, including a centre with an embossed, chequered, carbon-like finish.
Each of the references features a date window at 3 o’clock and accents in yellow, red or blue on the seconds and minutes tracks and seconds hands, as well contrast stitching and lining of the black calfskin straps – which are also embossed with a carbon-like motif.
For an even brighter look the timepiece can be dressed up with a colorful Horus rubber strap for Patek Philippe watches.
Within the case is a self-winding Calibre 26-330 S C movement with stop seconds for more accurate time setting.
An unexpected surprise from the brand, this watch is sure to see the fortunes of the Calatrava continue to grow and we predict a hefty waiting list for all three references.
Kudos to Patek Philippe who developed a fresh design for its Calatrava line. As I read Tracey’s article, I allowed myself to dream that I could finally add a Patek to my collection, then Tracey threw a bucket of cold water on my head when I read at the very end: “we predict a hefty waiting list for all three references. Now I am wide awake with the reality of watch collecting in 2023!