I have never asked Zenith CEO Julien Tornare about his view on what François-Henry Bennahmias has achieved during ten years at the top of Audemars Piguet, but I get the impression the he is an acolyte when it comes to democratising luxury watches and taking them to a broader, and younger, audience.
AP shook up the conservative consensus adhered to by the likes of Rolex and Patek Philippe, and started collaborating with more youthful brands like Marvel and Mr Bennahmias did nothing to discourage rap and grind artists talking about Audemars Piguet in their lyrics and boast about them across social media channels.
Mr Tornare may also admire the way the iconic Royal Oak was beefed-up to create the Royal Oak Offshore as a collection for AP’s bolder clientele (although the line was first introduced in 1991, before the rein of Mr Bennahmias).
The comparison occurred to me at the launch this week of Zenith’s Defy Extreme Carl Cox limited edition, produced in collaboration with the British DJ and producer.
The watch, a chunky 45mm piece, feels like the equivalent of an Offshore if you compare it to the easy wear Defy collection.
It was launched in London this week with Mr Cox playing a set at the Raffles hotel in Chelsea.
The Defy Extreme Carl Cox is the second watch that the legendary DJ has put his name to with Zenith. The first was a Defy 21 released in 2020.
Zenith says the latest watch, which is limited to 100 pieces, is at the extreme end of the Defy Extreme collection.
“Carl Cox really inspires us and proves that if you’re passionate and driven by what you do, nothing is impossible,” says Mr Tornare, who is rumoured to be in the frame for a step up within the LVMH Watch & Jewellery division to become CEO of TAG Heuer.
“For our second watch created together, we really wanted to dive deeper into his rhythmic world and go back to his early days of DJing with analogue instruments. The result is Zenith’s most advanced chronograph reimagined by Carl Cox in a retro-futuristic and even minimalist way, and it’s truly special,” he adds.
The watch takes design cues from Mr Cox’s favourite set of turntables.
It is hued in matte-finished stainless steel — a first for the collection — with a yellow gold edge to its twelve-sided bezel and pusher guards that are inspired by the turntable stylus’ golden tonearm.
Its dial has a smoked sapphire crystal base with three black chronograph counters made to look like grooved miniature vinyl records.
We are told that the minute track is decorated with a pattern of dots that recall the stroboscope effect found on the sides of Carl Cox’ favourite turntables.
A power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock is fashioned like an ON/OFF switch.
Partially visible from the dial side, and fully exposed from underneath is an El Primero 9004 automatic chronograph movement capable of measuring time to within 1/100th of a second.
It can be bought with a choice of interchangeable steel bracelet or straps in black rubber or velcro for £26,600.
“I feel so honoured that Zenith have immortalised the three turntables that helped make my name within this watch,” says Mr Cox.
“Beautifully done and with incredible attention to detail, the watch is a fitting tribute to something that has made dancefloors come to life all over the world from a brand that is known for its mastery of movement. They wanted to do something special and they couldn’t have done better! Oh Yes, Oh Yes!”
