Audemars Piguet last week dropped a plethora of new watches and, taking a leaf out of Richard Mille’s book, it was done with minimum fanfare.
Of course, there will be a lot more to come from the brand – especially in the Royal Oak Offshore – the collection that gave the world one of the first celebrity partnership watch with 1999’s Arnold Schwarzenegger ‘End of Days’ collaboration – and which this year celebrates its 30th birthday.
But getting ahead of all the brands that will be launching their 2023 collections at Watches and Wonders and Geneva Watch Week in March, AP gave us Round 1 of this year’s novelties
The drop was really a game of two halves. In addition to several new Royal Oaks (more of some of those later), there was one special watch that will no doubt be a front runner in several GPHG categories this year: the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4.
Based on the Universelle pocket watch from 1899, the new watch boasts a jaw-dropping 23 complications and an additional 17 functions, including a grande et petite, a perpetual calendar and a split-seconds flyback chronograph. All of this traditional technical know-how is presented in a case that is just 42mm in diameter and 15.55mm thick.
It took seven years to combine all of these functions into one automatic movement – the 1,100-component Calibre 1000. And, while the calibre is indeed ultra-complicated, AP’s engineers and designers have set about making it as simple as possible to operate, reducing the usual number of pushers and correctors to just three of each.
The Universelle is offered in four versions - two openworked and two with solid dials, three in white gold and one in rose. With a price tag reported to start at CHF 1.45 million, and production capacity of just seven pieces a year, the Universelle is more of a symbolic piece – a statement that the brand is a serious watchmaker with much more to talk about than just the evergreen Royal Oak.
With that said, it is time to return to the Royal Oak and the most talked-about of all the models launched so far this year, the Royal Oak Selfwinding with turquoise dial.
While Rolex may have started a trend for robin’s egg (basically Tiffany blue) dials with its 2020 Oyster Perpetual, Audemars Piguet has taken a more precious path and launched a 37mm yellow-gold Royal Oak with turquoise dial (a path Rolex has also walked with its hardstone Day-Dates). Powered by the self-winding Calibre 5900, the watch is priced at £52,800.
A model that will do nothing to put out the fires when it comes to wish lists and allocations, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin with blue-grained dial is the latest take on one of the most coveted watches around. The 39mm limited-edition model has a white-gold case and bracelet and a granular dial inspired by a model made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the collection.
The sparkling, fine-grained texture was achieved using a translucent coating over blue-PVD. The watch is powered by the ultra-thin 7121 with pink-gold rotor visible through the exhibition caseback. The price is £67,300.
A further trio of white-gold Selfwinding Royal Oaks (in 34mm and 37mm time and date and one 38mm chronograph version) have been given a subtle upgrade with a smoked-blue dial and diamond-set bezel.
The moody blue dial shade is achieved by a blue PVD coating followed by a light mist of blue varnish being sprayed on the edge of the dial. Savvy insiders will be able to distinguish that your Royal Oak is a cut above the rest thanks to this regal new hue distinction. All models are £POA.
For those looking for more stealth – although to be honest, even an ‘under-the-radar’ all-black AP is instantly recognisable from 100 paces – there is the first 42mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph to be housed in black ceramic.
The only contrast on the watch is in the white indexes, hands and chrono counters and white-gold bezel screws. Within the case is the Calibre 4404 flyback chronograph movement that can be restarted without having to stop it first. The watch is priced at £72,500.
For those that need a touch of bling with their stealth timer, there is also a stunning two-tone version of the Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph in ceramic and yellow gold with black croc strap highlighted by gold stitching.
Yellow gold also surrounds the exhibition caseback that offers a view of the Calibre 4401 flyback chronograph movement. The watch is priced at £51,800.
