Ahead of this year’s global mega watch fair, Tracey Llewellyn rounded up what we already knew and what we hoped we would see.
Among today’s novelties, she inspects the Cyrus Klepcys GMT Ocean Blue, Czapek’s Antarctique Titanium and Charles Zuber Perfos “Founder’s Edition”.
Cartier
One of the most anticipated moments of Watches and Wonders (and SIHH before it) is discovering what model is set to be reissued in the Cartier Privé collection.
For 2023, we will be welcoming the return of the very first Tank model from 1917, the Tank Normale, which will now take its place alongside the Crash watch, the Tank Cintrée, the Tonneau, the Tank Asymétrique, the Cloche and the Tank Chinoise.
In addition to two seven-row bracelet models (a first for Cartier Privé) in platinum and yellow gold, there will also be platinum and yellow-gold day/night skeletons with interchangeable alligator-leather straps. Beyond these, there is certain to be the usual line-up of complications, high jewellery and metier d’art timepieces to blow visitors away.
Chanel
Always one of the most exciting collections to be unveiled, Chanel is, this year, taking watch lovers on a journey into the future with a collection celebrating robots, stars and space.
Putting a whimsical spin on Mademoiselle Chanel’s love of the cosmos and strict adherence to certain superstitions, the brand’s signature collections, the J12 and Première, become a canvas to showcase house symbols.
Lucky star charms dangle from winding crowns, while diamonds recreate constellations on dials and a stylised Coco points to the heavens as her arms become watch hands.
And, beyond the stunning designs, we can be sure of more mechanical pieces powered by the house’s proprietary Kenissi movements.
Charles Zuber
One of the best things about watch fairs is discovering new brands and this year will be a first for many when they see Charles Zuber’s steel sports watch in the metal.
Named for a master jeweller who worked for brands like Piaget, Charles Zuber watches are a collaboration between gem-setter Vincent Perego, jeweller Aram Garabetian and luxury goods entrepreneur Mohamed Hilal.
The first watch from the partnership is the Perfos “Founder’s Edition” designed by Eric Giroud and powered by the proprietary Calibre 01.
Charriol
Baselworld regular Charriol is making its Watches and Wonders debut this year and the lifestyle company, which makes accessories and jewellery in addition to watches, is set to bring a touch of affordable elegance to the fair.
Founded by Philippe Charriol in 1983, and now helmed by his daughter Coralie, the brand’s hallmark is its twisted metal cable bracelets.
After her father’s death in 2019, Coralie decided to take a tour through the company archives, which resulted in her revisiting one of the original best-selling designs, the Celtic.
A lover of the ocean and surfing, Coralie’s passion for environmentalism inspires her work at Charriol and we look forward to hearing more about her plastic-free packaging initiatives on 27 March.
Chopard
Year-on-year, Chopard brings red-carpet glamour to Switzerland’s watch fairs and, for 2023, we predict that they may have a little help from brand ambassador Julia Roberts.
Beyond the stunning jewellery pieces, there will, no doubt, be plenty of technical launches, including a new Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF in titanium.
The model features Chopard’s Calibre 01.12-C high-frequency, chronometer-certified movement in a 41mm titanium case with a pitch-black dial.
Chronoswiss
Founded in 1983 by watch industry legend the late Gerd R Lang — one of the men credited with having the foresight to stop the Swiss watchmaking industry destroying mechanical movements during the quartz crisis — Chronoswiss returns to Geneva in 2023.
Although the brand was acquired by Oliver Ebstein in 2012, with its HQ moving from Germany to Switzerland, the company’s dedication to producing exclusive, limited production watches remains the same.
Chronoswiss signatures include large onion-shaped crowns, intricate engine-turned dials and complicated mechanical movements, particularly regulators, all of which should make an appearance at Watches and Wonders.
Cyrus Genève
Official timekeeper and watch partner of the Uralkali Haas F1 Team, Cyrus Genève was founded in 2010.
The watches Cyrus produces combine unique designs, innovative materials and intricate complications, making them a brand of choice for watch enthusiasts who value creativity and innovation.
One watch that we know will be unveiled this year is the Klepcys GMT Ocean Blue (pictured) and whatever else is in store at this year’s Watches and Wonders, it is sure to create a buzz — particularly as Cyrus partners with Jean-François Mojon, the man, who with his team at Chronode, helped to deliver Harry Winston’s Opus X and MB&F’s Legacy Machines.
Czapek & Cie
When Xavier de Roquemaurel announced the relaunch of Czapek & Cie on 10 November 2015, he could have had little idea how the company would grow over the next eight years to the point where each new launch by the award-winning brand has a waiting list, and orders are no longer taken on certain models.
While we expect the full range to be on show at Watches and Wonders, including some special editions, we are particularly excited to see the new limited-edition Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector.
