Continuing our walk through the hallowed halls of Geneva’s Palexpo for the Watches and Wonders preview/review (watches we reported ahead of the show, and what we have learned since), we look today at IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laurent Ferrier, Louis Moinet, Montblanc and Oris.
IWC Schaffhausen
Most people visiting the IWC stand at Watches and Wonders were delighted to see this year’s redesign of the Gérald Genta penned Ingenieur.
Three versions of the watch with titanium case and bracelet and textured dial in black, silver or green will be presented.
Originally scheduled for launch in 2022, the watch — which is endorsed by its designer’s widow Evelyne Genta — is one that retailers, press and watch enthusiasts have been anticipating for quite some time.
However, the real theme for IWC this year is the chronograph, with the brand’s in-house movement being rolled out across the collections.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The past few years have seen a huge interest in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s stainless-steel Reverso Tribute Small Seconds models, and 2023 is sure to see demand for the Tribute increase when three new rose-gold versions are launched.
True to the original design from 1931, the strong art deco codes of the Reverso are all there: the bold geometric shape; the symmetry of the dial layout; the contrast of light and dark; the bold typography and easy-to-read markers; and the decorative elements of the sunray dial.
The ultra-thin case is just 7.56mm thick, and the straps are in leather and canvas.
Laurent Ferrier
The pursuit of excellence is embodied in Laurent Ferrier’s Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit, a collection that is constantly evolving to match current trends and tastes.
January of this year saw the addition of a salmon pink dial, which the company’s motor racing loving co-founders, Laurent Ferrier and François Servanin, say reminds them of dawn breaking at Le Mans.
“It is a moment beyond time, a brief oasis of peace amid the frenetic pace of the race,” they say. Made in sporty titanium with white-gold details, the latest Grand Sport is a racing classic in every sense.
Louis Moinet
Jean-Marie Schaller, Louis Moinet’s CEO and creative director, says 2023 is shaping up to be the independent watchmaker’s most exciting year after winning no fewer than eight international awards last year for watches including the Memoris Spirit, which now comes in a range of styles and materials.
The openworked dials expose the levers, clutch, hammers, column wheel, springs and wheels.
Expect the family to be extended this year, perhaps with slithers of meteorite or another other-worldly material.
Montblanc
Following the success of last year’s 1858 Iced Sea dive watch, Montblanc is set to release new versions of the model, as well as new iterations of 2022’s Zero Oxygen innovation.
At the haute horlogerie end of the scale, there will be a new Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph in distressed steel (pictured) as well as a unique new chrono with start, stop, reset functions operated via the bezel.
Oris
For 2023, the Oris Bear gets a friend: Kermit the Frog.
The new partnership with Disney’s The Muppet, sees a ProPilot x Calibre 400 with a dial in the perfect green shade to represent the amphibious favourite.
And in case the colour isn’t enough to remind wearers of the watch’s inspiration, the date window at 6 o’clock offers extra back-up: on the first day of every month, a portrait of Kermit will appear.
Oris has a mission to make people smile and, with this watch, they will achieve exactly that.
