The dust has settled on the second annual Geneva Watches and Wonders mega fair, and WatchPro has news of some of the hottest watches unveiled at the event.
Ahead of the show, Tracey Llewellyn reported on the 48 manufacturers showcasing their latest products and innovations to industry professionals, collectors, and enthusiasts.
In part one of our alphabetical virtual visit we introduce novelties from A. Lange & Söhne, Arnold & Son, Alpina, Angelus, Baume & Mercier and Bell & Ross.
A. Lange & Söhne
While watchmaking tradition, exceptional quality and timeless designs are sure to feature prominently, Lange is not averse to surprising the watch world with unexpected complications.
With this year being the 10th anniversary of Lange’s most complicated wristwatch ever — the Grand Complication — with grand and small strike, minute repeater, perpetual calendar and flyback chronograph, anticipation is high that we may see a nod to this piece.
What we do know, however, is that the incredibly successful Odysseus collection of steel integrated-bracelet sports-luxe watches will get a new family member in the form of Lange’s first self-winding chronograph movement: the L156.1 Datomatic calibre.
Alpina
A brand that deserves a much stronger presence in the UK, Alpina is this year celebrating its 140th anniversary.
Known for its durable sports watches, a key feature of Alpina is value.
At Watches and Wonders 2023, the brand will be showcasing one of its core ranges, the Alpiner Extreme, unveiling four models: two new versions of the Alpiner Extreme Automatic and two limited-edition Alpiner Extreme Automatic Regulators.
Three of the new quartet feature an integrated steel bracelet with a subtle brushed finish. The signature Alpiner Extreme triangular motif remains on the dial and the counterweight of the seconds hand.
Angelus
With a history stretching back 125 years, Angelus is today famed for its complex chronographs — often combined with tourbillons and skeletonised structures.
We anticipate seeing new versions of both the brand’s stylish dress watches and functional sports models.
Arnold & Son
A piece we are looking forward to seeing in the metal is the new Arnold & Son Globetrotter.
First presented in steel in 2018, and updated in 2021, this year saw a platinum version in a 45mm case with domed sapphire crystal. A world timer unlike most others, the Globetrotter has a three-dimensional depiction of the Earth showing the Northern Hemisphere.
As the half-globe rotates every 24 hours, world times can be read from the 24-hour ring. We also hope to see new versions of the signature True Beat and the DTE with twin tourbillons that rotate on separate axes.
Baume & Mercier
Created in 1973, Baume & Mercier’s Riviera is just a year younger than AP’s ground-breaking sports-luxe Royal Oak.
Revamped two years ago, the Riviera now boasts a whole new generation of models in quartz and automatic versions.
Still featuring the distinctive, 12-sided bezel, streamlined case and faceted steel integrated bracelet, the new look was introduced in 36, 42 and 43mm models.
Inspired by the jet-set lifestyle of the 1970s, the Riviera is a sports watch for the 2020s — bold and contemporary as demonstrated by last year’s stylised 43mm Riviera Baumatic Moonphases.
With this being the 50th anniversary, we are sure the Riviera will be prominently showcased at Watches and Wonders and we are excited to see where Baume and Mercier go with the birthday models.
Beauregard
With a name that translates as ‘beautiful gaze’, the watches that come from Alexandre Beauregard’s eponymous company have big promises to fulfil, but they do this in spades.
Creating enchanting works of jewellery art, Montreal-based Beauregard was founded in 2011, launching its first Swiss-made watch, Dahlia — featuring a central tourbillon surrounded by invisibly-set, bejewelled petals — in 2018.
A finalist in the 2018 GPHG awards, Dahlia was praised for its use of “gemstones from the ages giving expression to the fleeting nature of time”. Uniting haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie in a truly unique way, the 2023 creations are hotly anticipated.
Bell & Ross
While Bell & Ross’s vintage collection of round watches is always a people pleaser, it is the square BR models that are the real headline grabbers.
The recently launched BR 05 Skeleton Golden is a perfect example of how the brand keeps reinventing itself.
An urban version of Bell & Ross’s more military-inspired BR 01 and BR 03, this new variation of previous openworked models, has a 40mm steel case, a flange, hands and hour markers coated in gold and a gold-tinted translucent sapphire dial covering a rhodium-plated movement below.
At the time of going to press, rumours are circulating that we will see a brace of BR 03s at Watches and Wonders — a GMT Blue, a Diver White Bronze — as well as a new green and gold BR 05.
Ball is understated and underrated a fine company.