Among the 50 brands participating at WATCHPRO Salon, which opens tomorrow (Friday, November 11), there is not a single watchmaker from Swatch Group, LVMH, Richemont or the Rolex and Tudor group.
While watch lovers may want to see the latest collections from the likes of Omega, Cartier and TAG Heuer, they know they can head down to the West End of London, Leeds, Glasgow or Manchester and find them.
From the point of view of these group brands, they have invested eye-watering sums in their own showrooms on the most expensive streets in the world, and naturally want customers to come into these flagships, or those of their retail partners.
The UK is the fourth or fifth largest watch market in the world, but retailers have become ultra-conservative in the range of brands they are prepared to stock.
There are exceptions, but the trend is towards presenting fewer blockbuster brands, rather than take risks on what might be the next big thing.
Some brands have broken through in recent years. Grand Seiko and Doxa are the best examples. Both are exhibiting at WATCHPRO Salon because they want to build on their current momentum by reaching out to an audience of watch lovers, press and retailers.
Oris, another of the world’s biggest independent brands, burst out of the post-pandemic fog with the sort of agility that you do not see from the conglomerates. The business has had an outstanding year, and will be showing some of the most desirable watches at WATCHPRO Salon.
Maurice Lacroix and Herbelin have been equally entrepreneurial as they capitalise on the growing inquisitiveness of recent converts to the watch world, particularly the younger generation of enthusiasts.
Independence is a characteristic that binds all of the WATCHPRO Salon brands together.
Some of the independents are of the ultra-low volume artisan variety like Laurent Ferrier, Czapek & Cie., Charles Girardier, Speake-Marin, Byrne and Zeitwinkel.
We are delighted to have three British independents: William Wood, Elliot Brown and anOrdain in attendance.
Many are bringing independent thinking and creativity to the design and architecture of their watches. Reservoir is a great example, with its retrograde minute and jumping hour watches.
Ikepod, Bomberg and SevenFriday are three other brands with their own radical sense of style.
The crazy things is that many of these incredible watchmakers find it almost impossible to have their watches stocked in brick and mortar stores, so they are discovered on Instagram by customers that then have to take a leap of faith and buy them online before ever trying them on.
That is why WATCHPRO Salon is not just an opportunity to enjoy seeing so many fresh brands, it is also an important event to show that there is demand in this country well beyond the dozen brands that dominate the landscape.
I hope that watch lovers delight in the vast breadth of timepieces on view, but also that retailers and press see opportunity in working with them.
WATCHPRO Salon 2022 exhibitors and partners
WATCHPRO Salon is a showcase of prestige watchmakers where collectors, brands, retailers and press meet in 5-star luxury.
Back for a second time after a sensational debut in 2021, the two-day event takes place from November 11 to 12 at The Londoner, one of the capital’s most spectacular 5-star hotels on London’s Leicester Square.
Exhibitors & Partners at WATCHPRO Salon 2022:
