As 2024’s watches are revealed in Geneva, Maurizio Pisanu, managing director of Gucci watches and jewellery, talks exclusively to WatchPro about the fourth edition of Gucci High Watchmaking.
WATCHPRO: This year’s watches feel more like a complete collection than ever before with complications, high complications and high jewellery watches that will appeal to both men and women. Is that how you see the 2024 pieces?
MAURIZIO PISANU: The 2024 Gucci timepieces collections showcase an array of new designs tailored to both men and women, emphasising Gucci’s commitment to meticulous craftsmanship. The collection offers timepieces spanning a variety of styles, sizes, colours, and complexities, ranging from elegant watches to sporty pieces, catering to every taste and aesthetic preference.
WP: You seem to have introduced a more serious side aesthetically, while still retaining a whimsical narrative. Was this a deliberate direction?
MP: Gucci timepieces are always underpinned by storytelling, and there is always a creative narrative behind each piece. In this way, every watch not only reflects Swiss watchmaking savoir-faire and technical expertise, but it also tells a story, whether this is a more streamlined, pared-down aesthetic or a fanciful, fairytale creation.
This year, Gucci High Watchmaking explores the visual representation of sound, known as cymatics, celebrating the harmony between the intricate patterns found in nature and the skilled artistry of technical craftsmanship.
WP: Can you tell me about the Gucci High Watchmaking manufacture in Cortaillod? Was it purpose built for Gucci or was it an existing facility that you took over?
MP: The watch manufacturing site in Cortaillod, Switzerland now called Gucci Watch Lab, has undergone a remarkable transformation. Formerly, the site was used for administrative functions and featured a prototyping centre. Today, following significant investment and expansion, the Gucci Watch Lab is a state-of-the-art facility that houses every phase of the watch production process under one roof.
The Gucci Watch Lab is where various critical functions converge: research and development, quality control, prototyping, production, assembly, finishing and savoir-faire. Locating everything under one roof, Gucci has streamlined processes and enhanced quality control. Investments in people’s know-how and expertise continue to ensure Gucci timepieces are globally recognised for their innovative and contemporary design and impeccable craftsmanship.
WP: Are you collaborating with movement makers on pieces like the minute repeater and the jumping hour?
MP: While all the design is carried out in-house, Gucci, like other brands, does collaborate with suppliers and exclusive partners to source some of the components.
WP: Why was it important for you to introduce a chiming watch in the form of the GUCCI 25H Minute Repeater?
MP: Watch connoisseurs will know that the minute repeater complication is one of the pinnacle achievements in watchmaking. Gucci wanted to solidify its position in haute horlogrie by introducing a timepiece featuring this intricate complication. The House has had many milestones along the horological journey, but this is a landmark creation for Gucci, a masterpiece of precision engineering that sounds the time acoustically, on demand.
The minute repeater mechanism has an architectural aesthetic and is ingeniously activated by an innovative rotating bezel. With subtle differences in the chimes, no minute repeater sounds precisely the same, making each model unique.
Crafted with beautiful attention to detail, the GUCCI 25H Minute Repeater comprises an impressive 340 components, all meticulously assembled by hand. This dedication to craftsmanship and savoir-faire further underscores Gucci’s commitment to excellence in watchmaking.
WP: There is always a contemporary twist to Gucci’s interpretation of traditional complications. What is the brand statement that this makes?
MP: Gucci’s vision has consistently been to set itself apart from other brands with its unique personal flair and avant-garde design philosophy. This year, this commitment is exemplified in the GUCCI 25H Minute Repeater, a revolutionary feat in watchmaking. This exceptional timepiece resonates with the seamless blend of nature’s beauty and human artistry.
Additionally, the introduction of the Gucci Interlocking masterpiece, fusing the flying tourbillon and jumping hour complications, further underscores Gucci’s dedication to innovation. It’s more than just showcasing technical prowess; it’s about marrying technical excellence with visual beauty and storytelling in every watch creation. Each piece is crafted to be a masterpiece, embodying a unique blend of innovation, style, and narrative allure.
WP: Where would you like to see Gucci High Watchmaking positioned?
MP: This year, Gucci unveils its fourth High Watchmaking collection, and we are truly proud of how far we’ve come in such a short time. The goal is to delight and astonish the world and watch collectors by releasing new creations every year, as well as showcasing the expertise of a brand that has over 50 years of history in the watchmaking industry.
WP: There has traditionally been a reluctance among watch collectors to accept watches made by fashion houses. With the investment into manufacturing and R&D, do you think this is changing?
MP: With significant investments in manufacturing and research, there has been a noticeable shift in how collectors view watches from fashion houses. Rather than competing directly with traditional brands, the goal is to offer a fresh, innovative, daring alternative to clients who already have many watches in their private collection, showcasing Gucci’s unique vision and heritage combined with unparalleled Swiss Made know-how. The extensive 50-year history in Swiss watchmaking highlights the brand commitment to craftsmanship.
Luxury fashion brands like Gucci are proving capable of creating exceptional timepieces that blend creativity and innovation, and which appeal to a new generation of enthusiasts. While there has historically been scepticism regarding fashion brands entering the watchmaking arena, Gucci has always committed itself to the highest level of quality and craftsmanship possessing the capability to deliver remarkable creations while infusing them with the unique style and heritage of Gucci’s Italian influence.
WP: Who is the typical customer for these pieces?
MP: Gucci’s clientele is very diverse. It includes watch collectors, historic Gucci lovers, and a new generation of customers looking for something different and exclusive. Today the watch market is full of qualitative proposals, and there is space for everyone, if the offer proposition is unique, strong, and combines a distinctive aesthetic with the best know-how.
WP: Where can the High Watchmaking pieces be bought?
MP: The High Watchmaking collection can only be acquired through exclusive Gucci events, at the Place Vendôme boutique in Paris, France, and in selected flagship stores in key cities.
WP: Can you sum up the philosophy of Gucci High Watchmaking?
MP: The philosophy of Gucci High Watchmaking revolves around the creation of unique pieces imbued with captivating storytelling, meticulous attention to detail, and exquisite craftsmanship. Overall, the philosophy is to create extraordinary timepieces that transcend mere functionality, offering wearers a unique blend of artistry, storytelling, and craftsmanship.
