The auction market is both driving and reflecting a dramatic rise in demand and prices for independent watchmakers, with pieces from living artisans Roger Smith and Francois Journe taking center stage at the upcoming Phillips New York Watch Auction: SIX.
There are 160 lots in the sale, which takes place over Saturday and Sunday, June 11 and 12, in Phillips’ Manhattan sale room and online.
Lots 1-82 will be offered on the Saturday and the remaining lots 83-163 under the hammer the following day.
Star lots include a fresh-to-market Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Lemon ref. 6264 “El Limoncito,” estimated at $600,000-1.2 million.
Among a strong line up from Patek Philippe is a ref. 5016 minute repeater with perpetual calendar and tourbillon in 18ct rose gold, and a well-preserved vintage reference 3450 perpetual calendar with factory sapphire exhibition caseback.
Phillips is drawing attention to a selection of vintage and modern Nautilus models including an 18ct “Jumbo” ref. 3700/1 retailed by Gubelin; one of only three ever sold.
F. P. Journe highlights include an early Tourbillon Souverain, a rare 40mm Tourbillon Souverain model with jade dial and a unique Harry Winston Opus 1 Chronomètre à Résonance — a collaboration between Harry Winston and F. P. Journe from 2001.
Top 10 watches at Phillips New York Watch Auction: SIX
(descriptions by Phillips)
Lot 111 | ROLEX, Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman “El Limoncito”, ref. 6264
Estimate: $600,000 – 1,200,000
Phillips is honored to offer this fresh-to-the-market, stunning 18K yellow gold reference 6264 with Paul Newman dial, nicknamed “El Limoncito.” With its grèné yellow dial, black subdials, and white graphics, the Lemon is perhaps the most striking and unusual configuration of Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman and is seldom seen publicly.
A Spanish-language play on the Italian nickname for the Lemon, the so-called “Limoncino,” “El Limoncito” is a nod to the Mexican origins of the family who owned this watch since its production in 1969.
Additionally, the clasp of the Rolex bracelet is stamped “Hecho in Mexico,” indicating it was fabricated in Mexico under the specifications of Rolex. Consigned by the family of the original owner, this watch was the crown jewel of a small collection of watches he had amassed, and he hardly ever wore it over the course of his life. Without a doubt, it can be considered a “best in class” example of the model.
Lot 110 | ROLEX, Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”
Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000
Phillips is proud to offer this stunning example of the Rainbow Daytona, which is virtually impossible to acquire at retail, even for longstanding customers of Rolex. The present lot has remained virtually unworn since its initial purchase in 2018 and retains all of its original accessories.
The reference 116595RBOW is a captivating reminder of the joie de vivre that wearing a watch can inspire, as well as the creative, technical, and aesthetic excellence of the Rolex brand.
With 36 rainbow-hued sapphires, 56 diamonds adorning the lugs and crown guards, and rainbow sapphires indicating the hours, every single gemstone used is internally flawless. Each sapphire is perfectly cut to fit without prongs into the bezel, and selected with the right color for transitioning to the stones on adjacent sides, so that rather than seeming like 36 individual stones, they blend into one another.
Due to the difficulty in sourcing these stones, subjecting them to Rolex’s high standards, and then fitting them into the watch, production numbers remain extremely low and across all metals, very few have surfaced at auction.
Lot 19 | PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 5016R-010
Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000
Phillips is thrilled to offer an outstanding Patek Philippe 5016R with two stunning dials. Fitted with an anthracite gray dial with applied Breguet numerals and accompanied by an extra, extremely rare semi-gloss black dial with diamond hour markers within pink gold settings.
Both dials bear the same movement number as on the original certificate – confirming their originality to the watch. Produced in yellow, white, and rose gold, as well as platinum (and a unique piece for charity in stainless steel) reference 5016.
It is believed that approximately 200 examples were manufactured until production ended in 2011.
Further accompanied with its original Certificate of Origin, chronometer certificate, presentation box, additional caseback, the presence of an additional dial made especially for this watch elevates the importance of an already outstanding and singular timepiece.
Lot 90 | PATEK PHILIPPE, Ref. 3450 Sapphire Caseback
Estimate: $250,000 – 500,000
Another stunning lot to join Phillips’ June sale is the Patek Philippe reference 3450. Launched in 1981, reference 3450 was the successor to the reference 3448 – Patek’s very first automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch. While aesthetically similar to reference 3448, it most notably features a leap year indication on the dial.
Setting this specific ref. 3450 apart from its kin, it is one of only 6 total examples known to be fitted with a sapphire caseback – a special request from the original owner and confirmed by a letter from Patek Philippe.
Since appearing at auction in 2004 when it was consigned by the original owner, it has remained ensconced in one of the greatest American collections of vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches.
Fully corroborated and in a breathtaking state of preservation, the flawless dial is housed within a case in near-perfect condition, having never been previously polished.
Complete with its original Certificate of Origin, original box, and correspondence from Patek Philippe confirming the originality of the sapphire case back, it is one of the finest examples of a reference 3450 to crown a collection of the world’s best timepieces.
Lot 88 | PATEK PHILIPPE, Nautilus “Jumbo” Ref. 3700/1 retailed by Gübelin Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000
Phillips is delighted to offer the present watch that is only the third ever Gübelin-signed Nautilus 3700/1 in yellow gold to appear at auction, with this particular one having never been offered publicly.
It is a stunning example, preserved in all original condition, with its dial flawless and original to the watch. The original, Gay Frères-signed flat Nautilus clasp is correct, and the bracelet remains absolutely rigid and tight throughout.
The “Jumbo” nickname referred to the 42mm case diameter, which was considered oversized for the era. While the Nautilus was initially not well received, its popularity quickly grew, and soon became a mainstay of Patek Philippe’s collection with subsequent models including chronographs and perpetual calendars.
The original reference 3700/1 was in production from its introduction in 1976 until 1981 and featured a straight bracelet, versus the tapered bracelet of the successor reference 3700/11.
Lot 163 | PATEK PHILIPPE, Nautilus, Ref. 5711/1A-014
Estimate: $80,000 – 160,000
In 2021, Patek Philippe announced the imminent discontinuation of the reference 5711/1A in its entirety and introduced a special “olive green” dial to only be produced for one year to mark its departure.
Alongside a baguette diamond-set bezel variant, these two final 5711s (apart from the limited run of 170 “Tiffany Blue” double signed pieces) would mark the end of the production of the reference that has been a mainstay of the Patek Philippe collection since its introduction in 2006.
Given that no more of these 5711/1A-014 pieces will be produced and are now fully discontinued, the present example is one of the extremely few opportunities to acquire this intensely limited run of one of the most iconic sports watch references of all time.
Lot 116 | F.P. JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain No. 035/99T
Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000
The Tourbillon Souverain offered in the June sale is a first-generation model in platinum with a superb white gold dial, eloquently embodying F.P. Journe’s inimitable style both in terms of aesthetics and technical mastery.
Made from 2000 to 2005, these first-generation Resonance models, like the present lot, feature rhodium-plated brass movements and a 38mm case. This watch is an extremely early and rare example of Journe’s Tourbillon with remontoir d’egalité and is numbered 035, dating from 1999, and is classified as a second-generation version of the Tourbillon due to its similarity to the Souscription series dials.
Completely original, the dial’s printed text appears as though it is floating over the dial surface – a trait that is prominently featured in this example, where it can almost seem as though one is seeing double.
Furthermore, it exhibits the remarkable reflectivity, sheen, and luster found in Journe’s’ earliest dials that is today so coveted by collectors. The case back engraving style is Journe’s earliest-extremely shallow and also extremely sought after.
The present lot offers the rare opportunity of obtaining a fresh-to-market, historically significant wristwatch integral to understanding the evolution of one of the most influential contemporary watchmakers.
Lot 10 | F.P.JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain Jade Dial
Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000
François-Paul Journe introduced the Tourbillon Nouveau (reference “TN”) in 2003 to replace the previous Tourbillon (reference “T”), which had been in production since 1999.
The Tourbillon Nouveau can be seen as a wholesale upheaval of the previous tourbillon movement. The brass movement was discontinued and replaced by a movement made entirely of 18 karat pink gold — a first for the watch industry.
François-Paul also incorporated a deadbeat seconds mechanism, further adding to the watch’s technical superiority, as it allows for the seconds hand completely stop as the escapement continues to beat, not moving until one second has elapsed.
Enthusiasts, however, will be drawn to the most singular part of this watch: the extraordinary Jade dial, created by the in-house dial makers of F.P. Journe, Les Cadraniers de Genève, with great skill and
at great expense. Jade is rarely used in timepieces as at a certain thickness, jade will crack, and it requires extreme care, skill, and artisanship to place in a watch dial. Extremely rare, it was delivered in 2015 to the present owner, who is offering it for sale for the very first time – fully complete with original certificate, purchase invoices, product literature, extra strap, and presentation box.
Lot 11 | ROGER SMITH, Series 2 Open Dial
Estimate: $150,000 – 300,000
With just four platinum examples of Roger Smith’s open-worked Series 2 ever manufactured out of a total of 12 across all metals, the Series 2 offered here presents a unique opportunity to acquire one of the rarest and most exceptional independently- made timepieces of the 21st century.
Directly from the bench of Roger Smith to the original owner, and then to Phillips New York, the present Series 2 cased in a 40mm platinum case was executed with a sublime open-worked dial at the request of the owner.
The movement is where English watchmaking takes center stage as far as the combination of mechanical performance and aesthetic skill. It is none other than Roger Smith’s improved Daniels’ co-axial escapement providing the regulation, as Roger takes on the mantle of British horology and the legacy of his mentor, with a single-wheel co-axial escapement.
The Series 2 Open Dial was discontinued and reintroduced as a separate reference, the Series 5. This combination of factors, as well as the condition of the present lot in exceptional, barely-worn condition, and complete with all of its original accessories from the time of purchase, is the first chance at a Series 2 Open Dial at auction and consigned by the original owner.
Lot 49 | A. LANGE & SÖHNE, Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst
Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000
Also featured in the sale is a spectacular A. Lange & Söhne that bears the rarified title of Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerskunst, It is an exceptional example of Teutonic watchmaking mastery hardly ever seen on the secondary market.
The Lange Handswerksunst watches, literally meaning “craftsmanship” in German, typically display a level of adornment and worksmanship unseen in their regular production counterparts. Handwerkskunst pieces are all assembled by one single master watchmaker, and the assembly time is increased compared to normal Lange timepieces.
This particular Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerskunst features a deep black, hand-fired enamel dial made in-house by the artisans at A. Lange & Söhne with an exposed tourbillon and spectacular balance cock finished with black polishing.
Released in 2014 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Lange 1, the present example is replete with its original accessories and numbered 16 of 20, consigned by the original owner in crisp overall condition.
Lot 109 | ROLEX, “Datocompax” “Killy” Ref. 5036 from Ride the Wave Chapter II
Estimate: $120,000 – 240,000
So scarce is the Rolex reference 5036 that it is hardly ever seen in the pages of auction catalogues, the websites of vintage watch dealers, or even on the wrist of the foremost collectors of vintage Rolex.
Produced in very small numbers in steel, yellow, and pink gold between 1948 and 1951, reference 5036 is one of the rare triple calendar chronograph wristwatches, dubbed “Datocompax” manufactured by Rolex beginning in the late 1940s, and now known as the “Killy”.
The reference 5036 is the rarest and most sought-after by collectors – and in 18 karat pink gold, it’s the rarest of all metals. Interestingly, it bears an applied Roman numeral twelve, which is not present in the later references. Preserved in the “Ride the Wave” collection since its acquisition at auction in 2013, this reference 5036 is further testament to the collector’s attention to quality and excellence.
The lovely two-tone “no-lume” dial has aged to a contrasting warm ivory color, and the case still bears the oft-lost case numbers engraved on the edge of the caseback. Furnished with a period-correct Rolex strap and buckle, it is one of the rarest and highest quality “Datocompax” “Killy” examples ever made available to the public.
