In the realm of luxury watches, few manufactures boast a heritage as rich and enduring as Piaget. Established in 1874 as a movement maker, Piaget calibres have found their way into some of the greatest watches in history including models by Cartier, Rolex, Ulysse Nardin and Bulgari.
Following the Second World War, Timothée Piaget, son of the brand’s founder, established a manufacture in La Côte-aux-Fées enabling Piaget to develop and create in-house movements, culminating in the 9P and12P, Piaget’s original ultra-thin movements.
Around the same time (1943), the brand made the move into creating complete timepieces and by the mid-20th century had positioned itself as one of the greatest makers of gold watches in the world.
Pioneering the use of hardstones and unusual metalworking techniques, the watches from this period were handmade, naturally rare and are highly sought-after today.
But perhaps Piaget’s most memorable watch is the 1979 Polo. The brand’s own answer to the 1970s’ trend for integrated bracelet timepieces, Piaget followed the suit of many other top manufacturers and made its own sports-luxe model.
Conceived by Yves G. Piaget, the fourth generation of the family to helm the company, Piaget refused to bow to one common theme of other sports-luxe watches; while the idea behind the majority of the new timepieces was to make them in steel, for Yves only gold would do. To underline that fact, the Polo did not just contain a hint of the yellow metal, it received the full Midas touch with yellow-gold case, bracelet, dial and hands.
Yves was a talented equestrian who had noticed that the horsey set he frequented were taking a new stance on luxury. Gone was the idea of simple and understated and, in its place, was a more casual and obvious form of elegance. His initial designs transcended the boundaries of conventional wristwatches and led him to assert: “The Polo can be summed up in one sentence: it’s a watch bracelet rather than a mere wristwatch.”
The distinctive allure of the Piaget Polo has always lain in its ‘gadroon’ motif, an intricate pattern of textured horizontal ridges and channels that seamlessly traverse the bracelet, case, and dial. This distinctive design element not only adds a touch of opulence but also accentuates the watch’s cohesive aesthetic, reinforcing its identity as a timeless accessory.
Since its introduction, the Polo collection has seen various updates and iterations, showcasing Piaget’s commitment to both classic design elements and contemporary innovations. The use of precious materials, intricate detailing, and advancements in movement technology has kept the Polo relevant and sought-after by watch enthusiasts.
Steeped in history, the Piaget Polo boasts an illustrious list of early adopters, including iconic figures like Andy Warhol, Roger Moore, Brooke Shields, Björn Borg, and even the former First Lady, Nancy Reagan. These luminaries recognised the Polo’s unique blend of sophistication and functionality and established it as a symbol of status and style.
Now, as Piaget marks its 150th anniversary in 2024, it has unveiled a dazzling homage to Yves’s equestrian passion in the form of the Piaget Polo 79.
Piaget Polo 79
The 150th-anniversary edition of the Polo pays homage to its roots with a solid 18-carat yellow gold construction, weighing an impressive 200 grams. While the original 1979 model measured 34mm, the new iteration is enlarged to an on-trend 38mm, striking the perfect balance between vintage charm and modern desires.
Two years in development, and an almost exact aesthetic replica of the 1979 round model (it was simultaneously launched with a square case), one significant departure from its quartz-powered predecessor, is its movement, a 1200P1 in-house ultra-thin, self-winding calibre, an evolution of the 1200P that was launched in 2010 to celebrate the anniversary of the historic 12P calibre.
The movement features an off-centred, yellow-gold micro-rotor, a nod to its precious construction and testament to Piaget’s commitment to intricate detailing.
The 1200P1 movement is showcased through a sapphire-crystal caseback, revealing circular Côtes de Genève and perlage finishes. This transparent window into the watch’s beating heart adds an extra layer of fascination for connoisseurs and enthusiasts alike.
As for why the Polo 79 was chosen to kick-off the 150th anniversary, CEO Benjamin Comar – the man who has set the brand on a new trajectory since his appointment in 2022 – says that this piece represents the junction where past and present collide.
“For me, it’s the quintessence of what Piaget is about,” he says, “and what better model to kick-off of the 150th anniversary? It’s a very important watch for Piaget and we wanted to do a faithful reissue. We presented our ideas to Richemont management many months ago and they were very enthusiastic. Yves Piaget, too, was very supportive when I showed him the drawings.
“We didn’t want to bring it back exactly the same as the old one, which was 34mm. We wanted to include an automatic movement, so there were some constraints with the case size. But what we have, we think is the perfect proportion – not too big, not too small. Basically, the aesthetic codes are the same, but the technical codes have been remade for 2024, for example the water resistance, which has been increased to 50 metres.”
In essence, the Piaget Polo 79 stands as a beacon of the brand’s enduring legacy, encapsulating 150 years of horological expertise and design evolution. Its seamless fusion of heritage and innovation, embodied in the intricate case and advanced movement, ensures that the Polo will remain a timeless masterpiece for generations to come. As we celebrate Piaget’s milestone anniversary, the Polo 79 emerges not just as a watch but as a symbol of enduring elegance and unparalleled craftsmanship.
Limited by production, the Piaget Polo 79 is priced at £69,000.
