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Omega’s Moonwatch gets a glow-up

Average unit price of Omega’s Speedmaster rises with new range of 38mm models in precious materials.

Omega has introduced eight Speedmaster 38 models, each bringing its own unique charm. Among them are two editions in Sedna Gold, two in Moonshine Gold, and four in sleek stainless steel, all available on matching bracelet or leather strap.

For those seeking a blend of sporty elegance and a rich heritage rooted in chronographs and space exploration, the new 38s could be just the ticket.

Omega introduced the Speedmaster 38 model back in 2017, with the standout Cappuccino variant featuring a cream dial and brown ovoid subdials. The model was available in stainless steel and Sedna Gold, with or without a diamond-set bezel, and quickly became a best-seller for the brand.

Although, the 2017 debut certainly suggested the Speedmaster 38 was a woman’s watch, Omega president and CEO Raynald Aeschlimann believes that times have moved on radically in the past seven years, with contemporary men of style no longer concerned about wearing something that would traditionally have been made with women in mind.

Headliner celebrities wearing the new 38 at the launch party in Milan included actors Barry Keoghan and Jonathan Bailey, who stood alongside Naomie Harris and Alessandra Ambrosio, all celebrating the super-glam makeover of NASA’s chosen watch model.

During the event, Mr Aeschlimann emphasised the importance of good design and how this will bring watch lovers together regardless of gender.

“I don’t like the term ‘genderless watch’. I remember the Speedmaster Reduced [a smaller and more streamlined version of the classic Speedmaster Professional introduced in the 1980s] and I always hated that name because why was it ‘reduced’? At Omega, 38mm has always been a big success precisely because it doesn’t look like a reduced size of Speedmaster. We work tirelessly on the smallest details, such as the oval counters that are elegant and bring a sense of style,” he says.

Undeniably, Omega has elevated the collection with new Speedmaster 38 models, incorporating precious metal cases and bracelets and intricate gem-setting. With diamond-adorned bezels (each boasting 52 white gems), subdials edged with tiny sparklers, and set crowns, these timepieces exude luxury and sophistication.

Aeschlimann, notes a growing market demand for diamond-set Speedmaster 38 watches, leading to an expansion of the collection without replacing existing models. The new additions boast larger diamonds than previous versions (1.5cts in total), enhancing their allure and appeal and Omega’s president is keen to emphasise that the gems used are all responsibly sourced.

“Within the Swatch Group we have a company that not only buys diamonds and precious stones, but also sets them for us and one or two other brands in the group such as Blancpain and Harry Winston,” Mr Aeschlimann says.

“We are also very clear on that sustainability side and being able to prove to our customers that we are, for instance, a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), whose aim is to develop recognised standards and certification for supply chain integrity and sustainability in the industry,” he continues.

“We wanted to introduce bigger diamonds to the case because we had a lot of demand from people saying that the Speedmaster should not just for men,” he explains. “And equally, the 38 is not just for women. I don’t think we have icons of femininity and masculinity any more, just icons of style. We don’t talk about women’s and men’s accessories. Why should diamonds only be for ladies? If it fits the design then it works,” he insists.

Interestingly this follows a trend for iconic classic and sports watches reimagined in precious metals. In February, Omega introduced new Constellations in full gold, including gold-coated meteorite dials, while last month’s Watches and Wonders saw a solid gold Deepsea and gem-set Cosmograph Daytonas announced by Rolex, plus a full-gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport, again with gold meteorite dial. Whether coincidental or not, these pieces all answer recent calls from retailers for higher average price points, although Aeschlimann says that this was not the main aim of the strategy to develop these new pieces.

“When I look at the evolution of our gold Speedmaster, I see that a lot of people are willing to spend at this higher price point as long as it retains the spirit of elegance. We are seeing a lot of demand around our price range of £5,000 to £10,000, which is fuelled by the strength of our brand and also the design of our watches. So yes, these kinds of watches fit into our strategy, but they were not developed with the intention of bringing the price level up. Obviously, we are enlarging the Speedmaster 38 line so we wanted a combination of timepieces that customers are demanding and that bring a look that our current collection was missing.”

Among the new releases, two models are in Sedna Gold, Omega’s proprietary rose-gold alloy. The pieces feature a brown PVD dial with diamond-polished Sedna Gold hands. The collection also features Moonshine Gold models, characterised by a paler yellow tone, deep green dial and exquisite detailing.

“I think that with the Cappuccino from 2017, we created a new story. We made the 38 a part of our DNA and our job now is to protect the design,” Aeschlimann says. “Introducing the two new dial colours – chocolate and green – they needed to bring elegance and take Speedmaster into another world.

“Increasingly, if you want to be successful, then you have to have watches that fit everybody, which is not easy. We have to listen to our end clients. When I travel, I pretend to be a lawyer so that I can ask people about the watch I am wearing and get their opinons without them knowing who I am. People also come in to our stores and they want to discuss their experience of our world.”

Bearing in mind the stunning looks of the gold models, it is perhaps surprising, that it is the stainless-steel alternatives that really stand out on the wrist, with four new references. Available with brown or green PVD dials, these models come with a choice of stainless steel bracelet or leather strap.

Powering all of the Speedmaster 38 models is the Omega Calibre 3330, a high-performance automatic chronograph movement that is chronometer-certified by COSC. The calibre features a Co-Axial escapement and silicon balance spring, and offers the h Back in 2017, highest levels of precision and reliability.

All of the new additions offer a blend of classic elegance and modern sophistication, bringing something utterly new to the existing collection, which now offers everything from the sporty classic through to opulent diamond-studded models.

Scheduled for release on 24 April 2024, the new Speedmaster 38 models are available at Omega boutiques and authorised dealers. Prices start at £16,800 for stainless-steel models and range up to £43,800 for full-gold versions (both Sedna and Moonshine).

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