Thanks to the mastery of horological complication specialists Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, Louis Vuitton is quickly establishing itself as the king of wrist-worn automatons.
Louis Vuitton’s experience in automata began with commissioned bespoke pieces in the early 2000s, but was first revealed publicly with the spectacular, GPHG Award-winning Día de los Muertos-flavoured Tambour Carpe Diem in 2021.
Now, for 2023, the high-watchmaking skills and savoir-faire executed at Louis Vuitton’s movement studio La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva, have been distilled into the latest creation: the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata.
Below the candy-bright dial of the visually fascinating 42mm rose-gold timepiece is a movement of extraordinary innovation and razor-sharp precision.
On the surface, the engraved Grand Feu enamel dial, that is faintly reminiscent of traditional tattoo design, serves as a reminder that every rose has its thorn.
Louis Vuitton’s first-ever in-house enamel dial is the base for two three-dimensional red roses with the maison’s Monogram flowers at their centre, plus a flaming heart bearing the legend ‘Sweet’ and capped with a golden coronet of Monogram flowers.
At 6 o’clock, a 60-second tourbillon counts down the seconds, while the hours and minutes are displayed on a sub-dial made up of a thorny bramble that links the two dial blooms, its inward-facing briars a stark warning that time can be hazardous when taken for granted.
The dial itself is engraved with asymmetrically radiating sunrays that play with light and shade across the face, as well as Louis Vuitton’s Monogram flowers.
Unsurprisingly, the maison called on the best to help with the finishing of the roses and heart, which was completed by Dick Steenman.
A watchmaker with 25 years of experience in traditional watchmaking skills, Steenman is seen as the watch world’s No. 1 when it comes to hand-executed enamel engravings.
Dynamic in its execution, the dial is set into full motion at the touch of a diamond-set pusher at 8 o’clock.
For 13-seconds, the scene comes to life as outward facing thorns spring from the sub-dial, while the diamond-centred Monogram flowers that make up the roses’ pistils, spin in opposite directions.
The flames around the heart start to flicker as a jagged rift appears and the heart breaks in two, exposing its message in entirety: “Sweet BUT FIERCE”.
The entire ballet is made all the more watchable thanks to the domed anti-reflection sapphire crystal.
The mechanics needed to deliver this display of high-watchmaking involved three years of R&D and a dedicated movement: the 325-component Calibre LFT 325.
When the watch is turned over, the exhibition caseback reveals pink-gold thorny rose stems that adorn the micro-blasted movement bridges and twist around the exposed wheels.
Monogram flowers are also etched on the pink-gold rotor and automaton regulator bridge. As the animations are activated, the mainspring, drive wheels and regulator are visible via an openworked bridge in the movement’s upper right quadrant.
The dial-side flying tourbillon is a regular feature in Louis Vuitton’s fine watchmaking, but the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata is the first time it has been paired with a self-winding movement plus an animation.
Powered by a dedicated mainspring, the flying tourbillon sustains excellent chronometric performance throughout the movement’s 65-hours of power autonomy.
The Grand Feu enamel work on the dial marks a significant development for the maison’s internal artisans.
Created by mixing powdered silica with a variety of metal oxides before applying to a metal surface and then baking in a kiln at temperatures between 700°C and 1,200°C, the result is vibrant, long-lasting hues.
The delicate technique demands years of practise, a highly disciplined approach, and a great deal of technical skill.
Louis Vuitton now counts the craft as part of its in-house métiers d’art capabilities having previously worked with some of the most renowned enamel artists of today, including the legendary Anita Porchet, who produced the dial of the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time Only Watch.
But, buyers be warned. If you are tempted to dampen the rising flames of this extraordinary timepiece, Louis Vuitton has foiled your attempts by ensuring that the watch has a full 50 metres of water-resistance!
