Grand seiko

Grand Seiko takes it to the valley

Part of the Evolution 9 collection, the SLGH021 ‘Genbi Valley’ has a 40mm case and bracelet made from “Ever-brilliant” steel

The beautiful countryside around Grand Seiko’s facilities in Japan has long been a source of inspiration for the brand and the headline piece at Watches & Wonders takes its cues from the Genbi Valley, a picturesque ravine in Iwate Prefecture.

Part of the Evolution 9 collection, launched in 2020, the SLGH021 ‘Genbi Valley’ has a mint-green textured dial and a 40mm case and bracelet made from Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy called “Ever-brilliant” steel, which is highly corrosion resistant and has a bright-white tone.

The SLGH021 is powered by a hi-beat movement. GS’s 47-jewel Calibre 9SA5 automatic movement has an impressive accuracy of +5 / -3 seconds per day, and an 80-hour power reserve.

This watch may make a better pairing for a nicely tailored suit rather than a swimsuit, but it nevertheless comes with a handy 100m of water-resistance. Because you never know.

Grand seiko grand seiko genbi valley slgh021 c

Grand Seiko ‘Genbi Valley’

Calibre 9SA5 automatic movement

Ref:  SLGH021

40mm case and bracelet in Ever-brilliant steel

Water resistance: 100m

Price: £9750. Limited to 700 pieces.

We were expecting more interesting developments on the Spring Drive front and Grand Seiko has not disappointed. It is 20 years since the 9R Spring Drive movement was put into continuous production. GS has already released new models this year to celebrate, and there are more Spring Drive at W&W. Notable is the titanium-cased Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275. Again using Japan’s natural charms as its muse, the watch has a patterned red dial that is inspired, GS says, by the colour of the sun reflecting off the Hotaka mountain range in the early mornings. The dial is finished with a technique called “optical multilayer coating” so that the dial appears to change colour as different light hits it.

The super-smooth Spring Drive movement has a power reserve of three days and accuracy of +/- 0.5 seconds per day. Flip it over and through the sapphire caseback you see the little 18k gold Grand Seiko lion adding weight and a touch of GS class to the winding rotor.

Grand seiko grand seiko spring drive chronograph gmt sbgc275 b

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275

9R 69 Spring Drive movement

44.5mm high-intensity titanium case and bracelet

Water resistance: 200m

Price: £12,000

A hidden golden lion is a good example of how Grand Seiko likes to keep things under the radar. For those who prefer things a bit more upfront, there is the openworked Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. A limited edition of just 20 pieces, it is part of the ultra-exclusive Masterpiece Collection and has a correspondingly six-figure price.

The SLGT005, or Kodo II, follows on from a one-off version that won the GPHG two years ago. That mechanical breakthrough for GS has been followed by this version, in essence the same watch but in a lighter hue, meant to represent the morning, On the constant-force tourbillon movement, blue sapphires are used for the jewels – a first for GS – to help evoke the light of dawn.

Grand seiko grand seiko kodo constant force tourbillon slgt005 a

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT005

Calibre 9ST1 manual-winding movement

43.8mm platinum and titanium case

White and grey leather strap

Water resistance: 100m

Price: POA available December 2024

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