Inhorgenta is now Europe’s largest jewellery and watch fair. The event, which takes place in Munich from February 16 to 19, has become increasingly important for brands wanting to reach a European audience, and French association Frencéclat has organised a pavilion of seven watch brands presenting their novelties.
Under the title “Initiatives to promote the production of watch movements in France”, the companies LIP/Humbert Droz, Silmach and Utinam will report on their projects and goals.
Hervé Buffet, General Delegate Frencéclat, explains why it is definitely worth taking a closer look at watches from France:
“French watch brands are known for their unique design approach that embodies elegance and diversity. However, the French watch scene is not just about aesthetics. It is experiencing an upswing characterised by the emergence of new brands and initiatives.”
“This demonstrates both the historical heritage and the innovative strength that characterises the dynamic French watch industry.”
Highlights from French watch brands at Inhorgenta
Briston – “Streamliner Urban Automatic”
The first thing you notice about Briston’s “Streamliner Urban Automatic” collection is the waffle pattern deeply embossed into the dial. The colours available are white, black, taupe, olive green, navy and ice blue.
The sapphire crystal, on the other hand, is kept flat and fitted into the striking bezel made of 316 stainless steel – pure or in PVD rose gold – decorated with four screws.
The second look is at the Briston-typical tortoiseshell-like cotton resin that adorns the sides of the 40 millimeter case.
Through the case back, which is also equipped with sapphire crystal, the third view is of the proven automatic movement NH35 from Seiko NH35 and its rotor decorated with a “Côte de Genève” finish.
The wearer decides whether the bracelet continues to be an eye-catcher. There is an extensive range of embossed leather straps and silicone straps as well as an integrated stainless steel strap to choose from.
Herbelin – “Cap Camarat Square Lady”
The square version of the “Cap Camarat” is now also available in a 30mm version.
This doesn’t change the sporty, urban chic. The range of colored dials with French Navy patterns as well as luminous indices and hands also contribute to this.
One of them is in the trendy champagne rosé color, matching the Pantone colour of the year 2024 Peach Fuzz.
The frame is formed by the stainless steel case, which is water-resistant to ten bar and houses a reliable Swiss quartz movement.
The “Cap Camarat Square Lady” is worn on a stainless steel bracelet with double folding clasps.
LIP – “Himalayas”
Emmanuel Lipmann founded a small watchmaking workshop in Besançon in 1867.
A true pioneer, LIP has revolutionised the tradition of watchmaking for more than a century and a half through innovations and exclusive creations with elegance, refined design and accessibility to a wide range of buyers.
This also applies to the current models. One example is the “Himalaya” line, which emerged from a conversation between mountain lover Fred Lip (grandson of Emmanuel Lipmann) and mountain guide Lionnel Terray.
When it was first introduced, it was equipped with the unbreakable Elgiloy mainspring, which LIP was the first European brand to introduce. This made the watch extremely robust, which it demonstrated during French expeditions in 1950 and 1951.
Today, the various versions with a diameter of 40 and 35 millimeters are still reliable and robust, but at the same time offer a wide range of designs that also cut a fine figure away from mountain paths. They are powered by quartz movements or automatic calibers from Miyota.
Pierre Lannier – “Melody”
The Pierre Lannier watch brand was founded in 1977 by Béatrice and Jean-Paul Burgun and is now managed by their son Pierre Burgun.
“Through our own production facilities, which ensure control from creation to the finished product, our creativity and the proximity to our 1,500 French sales partners, our brand has developed in France and in over 60 countries,” he emphasizes.
The brand, which is one of the market leaders in France in the segment for automatic watches under €500, has always relied on French savoir-faire and manufacturing in France. An example is the automatic model “Melodie”.
Poiray – “Ma Premiere”
Between tradition and modernity, the French brand, founded in 1975, translates its vision of luxury into timeless classics.
Watches have also been part of the portfolio since 1987, and the first timepiece – “Ma Première” – is still the inspirational basis for all new models.
Designed in the Art Deco style, it repeatedly proves its versatility and is presented in gold as well as in steel, very simple or with sparkling diamonds, with Roman or Arabic numerals as well as in various colours and with a wide variety of bracelets. The latter can be easily changed without tools.
Utinam – “Pop-Up Murale”
The brand was founded in Besançon, in the heart of the Franco-Swiss watch region and has been the French specialist in contemporary mechanical watchmaking for 30 years.
The designer Philippe Lebru combines watchmaking art with contemporary design to create extraordinary time display objects. For this he has already been honored with numerous awards, from the Grand Prix des Lépine in 2005 to the nomination for the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève in 2022.
Yema – “Superman Bronze”
Yema was founded in 1948 and is run by the third generation of the Morteau watchmaking family.
Most employees have been with the company for an average of 30 years and were trained in our region at the most prestigious watchmaking schools in France. Over the years, Yema has specialized in high-precision timing devices for the military, professional athletes and explorers.
Over the past three years, after expanding and modernizing the workshops in Morteau and relocating production, Yema has transformed itself into a factory that now works exclusively with local partners within a 72-kilometer radius of Morteau.
A new line of in-house calibers has also been created. These work, among other things, in the “Superman Bronze” model with the CMM.10 in-house caliber with 72 hours of power reserve in a bronze case.
