Tudor’s big news for 2023 wasn’t so much its latest models, but the opening of its state-of-the-art manufacture.
It was particularly noteworthy that the automated facility, where robots glide around relieving skilled watchmakers of mundane duties, is physically connected to an equally hi-tech Kenissi factory.
That is a story for another day, and should not overshadow the launch of three entirely new Tudor models and two new dial configurations from a brand that is arguably the hottest on the market today.
Morgan Stanley’s report on the state of the Swiss watch market estimates that Tudor sold 270,000, watches last year, 40,000 more than Breitling, at an average retail price of over CHF 3,000.
Tudor Black Bay 54
It starts with what just might be the most popular model in the range, the Black Bay 54, the latest incarnation of a diving watch which first appeared in 1954 as Ref 7922.
The Black Bay 54 represents not just the true form of the 7922, but it also addresses an unexpected phenomenon watch culture: the return to popularity of more manageable case sizes.
Inside its 37mm case, adding to the desirability, is a true Manufacture Calibre, the COSC chronometer-certified MT5400 with silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve.
Joining to the Black Bay 54 collection is a version with refined details.
It retains the historical proportions of its 37mm case in stainless steel with a 60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel, free of hash marks.
The ‘lollipop’ seconds hand recalls that of the 7922, while the minute hand refers to the historical ‘pencil’ shape, and there’s a smaller, more curved crown.
Tudor tells us that this is ‘the closest modern-day Tudor to a historical piece.’
Other details include a subtly-domed, satin radial-brushed black dial with gilt accents, and ‘snowflake’ hour hand, first seen on Tudor diving watches in 1969, treated with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material.
The watch is available with either a stainless steel three-link ‘rivet-style’ bracelet (£3,200) or rubber strap (£3,030), both with Tudor ‘T-fit’ rapid adjustment clasp.
Tudor Black Bay Burgundy METAS Master Chronometer
Next in the Black Bay line comes the Black Bay Burgundy METAS Master Chronometer. Black Bays with burgundy bezels are among the most recognisable of all the Tudor models, but they’re now enhanced by ‘evolved’ design elements, the aforementioned ‘T-fit’ clasp and the status as Tudor’s second model that is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS.
This is effectively a new version of the very first Black Bay launched in 2012, which took the world by storm. Its 41mm stainless steel case is fitted with a 60-minute unidirectional bezel in burgundy, but with slimmer proportions than the previous version and better grip.
While the evolution of the watch’s details will have their own charm – the subtly domed satin radial-brushed black dial with gilt accents, reworked minute ‘pencil’ hands and new lollipop seconds hard, ‘snowflake’ hands, and more, it’s what’s inside that will impress the enthusiast: METAS Master Chronometer certification, commanding the five testing requirements of Swiss Made, Waterproofness, Precision, Anti-magnetism, and Power Reserve.
As with other Tudor models, the Black Bay Burgundy METAS Master Chronometer is available with a stainless steel three-link ‘rivet-style’ bracelet (£3,630) or rubber strap (£3,460), as well as a five-link bracelet (£3,720). All are secured by a ‘T-fit’ rapid adjustment clasp.
Opaline dial Tudor Black Bay GMT Pepsi
Hugely popular, the Black Bay GMT, launched in 2018, is now available in steel with an opaline dial, available on steel bracelet (£3,590) or fabric strap (£3,330).
Tudor Royal
There are two new dial variants for the Royal collection, salmon on the Royal steel and chocolate brown on the steel and gold models.
This model is available in four 316L stainless steel or 316L stainless steel and yellow gold case sizes – 28, 34, 38 and 41mm – with integrated metal bracelet, notched or diamond-set bezel and manufacture automatic movement.
And, as with Black Bay, the Royal has provenance of its own: the name dates back to the 1950s.
Tudor Time-Only Black Bays
Completing Tudor’s 2023 launches are four sizes of the Black Bay fixed-bezel model, to suit all wrists. They include 31mm (£3,110), 36mm (£3,200), 39mm (£3m290) and 41mm (£3,370).
All are fitted with COSC-certified Manufacture Calibres specifically configured for each case size, and there are three dial colour options: Anthracite, Blue and Light Champagne with or without diamond setting.
