For those with the horological bug, a watch movement is not just a functional engine to keep time ticking. It’s a well of ideas, a little cornucopia of challenges, solutions, techniques and ingenuity – what Oris calls, rather neatly, the ‘joy of mechanics’.
And, as Oris has proven, exclusive and sophisticated new movements are no longer the sole preserve of resource-laden luxury groups, or those at horology’s rarefied top end, Tim Barber suggests.
As these three WATCHPRO Salon exhibitors demonstrate, the options for those wanting a watch powered by something a little more select, demonstrating the ingenuity and passion of the brand that made it, are becoming richer every day.
Oris
Aquis Date Calibre 400
£2,700
It’s just over a year since Oris launched the movement that could well be its game-changer.
Developed in-house over several years, Calibre 400 is no mere replacement for the ETA/Sellita tractors the brand has always relied upon: its attributes include a five-day power reserve, elevated anti-magnetism, and such durability that the brand says you won’t need it serviced for a decade, which is also the length of the warranty it’s offering.
Put that engine inside the hugely wearable Aquis Date 41.5mm, and you have one of the most versatile and well-equipped all-rounder watches on the market today.
An absolute home run for Oris, and a potential gateway to greater things to come.
Christopher Ward
C60 Concept
£3,495
Christopher Ward’s muscular double-barrel SH21 movement, made at its wholly-owned Swiss manufacturing facility, has been around seven years now and is arguably a somewhat under-appreciated gem.
A five-day, chronometer-certified powerhouse, it takes on a completely new identity in one of this year’s most unlikely releases: a skeletonised dive watch displaying sumptuous hand finishing.
Christopher Ward worked with high-end partners like Armin Strom and Chronode to pull off what’s surely its most strikingly impressive watch to date.
The price point, both for the workmanship involved and the visual allure of the watch itself, is outstanding.
Pequignet
Gold Attitude
€9,000
France’s revitalised Pequignet is returning to the UK market, and has an exciting new story to tell.
The firm gained attention a decade ago for its high-spec Calibre Royale, but has this year launched a new and rather simpler in-house movement, which it’s calling Calibre Initial.
An elegantly designed and finished automatic with a 65-hour power reserve, it’s being proposed by Pequignet as a potential alternative to ETA and Sellita movements, and makes its debut in the Attitude, an appealing gold dress watch limited to 100 pieces.
The movement is made at the Pequignet factor in the French Jura, and every part is made within the surrounding area. For a brand that’s long been punching up in a tough market, could this be the development that finally sees Pequignet fulfil its considerable potential? Here’s hoping.
WATCHPRO Salon
WATCHPRO Salon is a showcase of prestige watchmakers and a chance for brands, retailers and press to meet collectors and enthusiasts in 5-star luxury.
The two-day event takes place from November 12 to 13 at The Londoner, a brand new 5-star hotel on London’s Leicester Square.
Confirmed exhibitors and partners include:
ALLEMANO | BALL WATCH | BIANCHET | BONHAMS | BRITISH HOROLOGICAL INSTITUTE | CHARLES GIRARDIER | CHRISTOPHER WARD | CYRUS | CZAPEK | DEETIMELOVE | DELMA | DOXA | DUCKWORTH PRESTEX | ENCELADE | GRAHAM | GRAND SEIKO | IKEPOD | JUNGHANS | LAURENT FERRIER | MARATHON | MAURICE LACROIX | MECCHANICHE VELOCI | MICHEL HERBELIN | ORIS | PARKLAND CONCIERGE |Â PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PEQUIGNET | PERRELET | QLOCKTWO | SCATOLA DEL TEMPO | SCHOFIELD | SIDEREUS | SINN | SPEAKE-MARIN | SWISS CAPSULE | SWISS KUBIK | THE SPLINED HUB | U-BOAT | VICTORINOX | VOUTILAINEN | WOLF | WILLIAM WOOD WATCHES | ZEITWINKEL
