In the world of fine watchmaking, there are the discreet masterpieces that reveal their technical glories only when you turn them over; and there are those that just let it all hang out.
At their best, such pieces aren’t just about whiz bang horological grandstanding (though they’re certainly about that in part).
They’re also about engaging directly with the analogue ‘technicity’ (as the Swiss call it) of watchmaking itself: following the clues into the heart of the tiny machine, and marvelling at human ingenuity.
Here are three watches at WATCHPRO Salon that manage exactly that, according to Tim Barber.
Czapek & Cie
Antarctique Rattrapante
Having entered the sports-luxe market with its likeable Antarctique design last year, Czapek has pulled off a stunning coup with this novel split-seconds chronograph, which unusually places the rattrapante workings dial-side.
The high-tech feel fits the Antarctique template rather well – it’s a measure of both the watch and the brand’s achievement that a unique version for OnlyWatch hammered last week for CHF240,000, against a high estimate of just CHF 90,000.
Cyrus
Klepcys Dice
Another chronograph produced within the technical hothouse of Chronode, Cyrus being a kind of shop window for founder Jean-Francois Mojon’s most creative ideas.
The Dice (or “Double Independent Chronograph Evolution”) puts stopwatch mechanisms into one movement – a kind of functional upgrade on the split-seconds, allowing you to time completely independent events at the same time.
That means two sets of hands for chrono minutes and seconds, with opposing colour-coded column wheels facing off at the top and bottom of the dial, as mono-pushers for operating the two chronographs on either side of the case.
Speake-Marin
Openworked Tourbillon
Dominated by the twin circles of the barrel and the micro-rotor, Speake-Marin’s curious, off-centre ‘One & Two’ movement architecture has been developed into an adaptable platform for watchmaking with a highly technical, three-dimensional aesthetic.
In this case with a flying tourbillon whirling at 1.30 and a power reserve at 7.30, it’s a beguiling piece of modern watchmaking, full of depth and beautiful finishes.
Unusually it’s made in both 38mm and 42mm versions.
