Seiko could find itself butting up against a rev limiter as it continues to create high-specification timepieces with prices that invite comparison with tool watches from the likes of Omega, Rolex and even Grand Seiko.
Its new Prospex LX Skyline, which goes on sale in November for £4,760, is a case in point.
It is a watch with all the hallmarks of a fine Swiss marque.
It has history, being based on a 1968 saturation dive watch. It uses the highly respected and inhouse manufactured Caliber 5R66 Spring Drive GMT movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has 72 hours of power reserve. And it has style thanks to a striking graduated dial that fades from black to blue in the way the earth appears when seen from the blackness of outer space.
And it is limited to a production run of 400 pieces for the whole world, which is designed to generate fear of missing out among enthusiasts.
Other high end features include a screw down crown and Titanium 44.8mm case and bracelet. The watch is water resistant to 100 metres.
A dive watch with 100m water resistance? Not exactly breath taking
More brand-dilution from an already confusing brand. It’s a handsome timepiece, and it will sell out instantly, but at what cost to the brand longer-term? Buyers at this level expect a piece to be an investment, but to hold value, the branding must be universally recognised, and this is not.
I understand that Seiko want a piece of the Rolex pie, financially, but all they are doing is inflating Prospex at the cost of Grand Seiko.
Size is right. Look is right. But that’s £1k more than it should be.
For half the price, you have a better Oris Clipperton