The return of Watches and Wonders as a global showcase for many of the world’s biggest watchmakers has not triggered a return to the tactic of launching every watch for each year in one huge dump in the first quarter.
Patek Philippe has continued the tactic, borne out of the necessity of working around covid lock downs, of a second major drop just ahead of the key Christmas sales period.
This year, the headline watch for autumn is undoubtedly a doppelganger for the discontinued Nautilus 5711, but this time in white gold, but the 5811 is one of eight fresh references highlighting the Geneva watchmaker’s iconic designs and peerless mastery of complications.
There are three new Nautilus watches in the collection.
Along with the 41mm white gold 5811/1G-001, Patek Philippe has released the Ref. 5811/1G-001, a rose gold Nautilus with an analog date, moon phase and power reserve indicator.
The watch, with a brown sunburst dial, uses the ultra-slim automatic 240 PS IRM C LU movement.
It retails for £56,190.
There is also a jewelled ladies’ Nautilus in rose gold, Ref. 7118/1300R-001, set with 68 baguette-cut spessartites on its bezel and a dial with 11 cognac-colored spessartites for hour markers.
It uses the automatic 324 S C movement, which can admired through a sapphire-crystal case back.
It goes on sale for £66,670.
Patek Philippe is one of the only manufacturers with watches in all market segments, and shows its versatility in a new split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph with perpetual calendar for left-handers; a first chronograph the company has ever produced for lefties.
The Ref. 5373P-001 is essentially a Ref. 5372 flipped to that the crown is on the left. It comes in a platinum case with a charcoal-colored dial with a vertical satin finish and black gradation to its edge.
It has black sub dials and accents in red lacquer.
It will be made in very low quantities. Price is on request.
For ladies who like a luxurious sporty look, the Aquanaut Luce collection has been extended with a chronograph for the first time.
Fitted with the caliber CH 28-520 movement, the new Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph is also Patek Philippe’s first automatic ladies’ chronograph, but its mechanics play second fiddle to its appearance, with its bezel adorned with a rainbow of baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires framing a mother-of-pearl dial with 2 colours of sapphire used as hour markers.
Again, the watch is not officially limited, but will be made in very low quantities and is priced at £171,420.
A new Ref. 5204G-001 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar and its manually wound caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q show off Patek Philippe’s mastery of grand complications.
It comes in a white-gold case with olive-green sunburst dial and is worn on a shiny olive-green calfskin strap.
A self-winding Ref. 5935A-001 World Time flyback chronograph with the automatic caliber CH 28-520 HU becomes the first stainless steel version of an ultimate collectors’ favourite, and on sale at an attractive £51,430 price point.
The dial oozes Patek Philippe tradition as well with a shimmering rose gilt giving its a vintage look, and carbon texture in the centre a nod to the style of the Ref. 6007.
Last, but by no means least, is a Ref. 5990/1A-011 in a steel case with a blue sunray dial.
Its automatic caliber CH 28-520 C FUS powers a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function and an analog date at 12 o’clock which is synchronized with local time.
It goes on sale for £55,240.
