The first half of the 20th century saw America competing with some success against the venerable watchmakers of Europe, but by the mid-1980s, that challenge had all-but fizzled out. With independent watchmaking gaining a fresh and enthusiastic audience, Americans are finding a new market for their homegrown timekeepers, as Roberta Nass discovers on this coast-to-coast fact-finding mission.
Ask any old-time collector in America if he or she remembers the American brands and the answer will undoubtably be “yes.”
Since the 19th century, some of the finest pocket watches were produced in America and hailed from companies like Waltham, Elgin and Waterbury Clock Company (later bought by Timex).
By the 20th century, brands like Bulova and Hamilton had steadfast positions here, with Bulova even creating the Joseph Bulova watchmaking school in New York after World War II.
Later, in the 1970’s, we witnessed a host of digital LED and LCD brands cropping up thanks to companies like Texas Instruments.
However, during the quartz crisis, many watch brands couldn’t survive in the USA. The country didn’t have the infrastructure to compete with Japanese quartz watches or Swiss mega-giants and eventually the best brands folded or were sold to bigger conglomerates.
For a couple of decades, the American watch industry seemed all but decimated.
Then, an interesting phenomenon started: small American watch brands began cropping up.
At first it was just a few companies here and there, but in the last few decades, America has witnessed the rebirth of the independent watch brands, as creative minds and people with visions began making their mark in the USA.
Here, we take a look at a new breed of USA-based watch brands that are laying their claim to American-made fame.
RGM Watches
One of the early independents to crop up in America, RGM, located in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, was originally founded by American watchmaker Roland G. Murphy in 1992.
He produces watches in his workshops there, some with Swiss movements, but he has also created his own American-made calibers.
Among them, the 801, the 20 and even a tourbillon. RGM watches are sophisticated works of art created on hand-operated machinery and boasting fine finishes.
One of its bestsellers is more mainstream. The Model 600 is inspired by military and pilot chronographs of the 1960s and ‘70s with dials that can be read with the quickest of glances thanks to the size of the dial and its chunky furniture.
Each detail is crafted to reflect the appeal of vintage military watches, including the general layout, and replicating numerical fonts to achieve a bona fide military chronograph look.
The dial and hands feature X1 SuperLumaNova for low-light visibility. As an homage to vintage design, RGM opted to go without a calendar or display case-back. They come in blue or black, priced at $4250.
Vortic Watches
Originally founded just eight years ago in December of 2014 in Pennsylvania – and now located in Fort Collins, Colorado — Vortic has a unique perspective on the concept of American made watches.
In fact, its American Artisan Series is all about celebrating the great American pocket watches of yesteryear.
The brand sources high-quality made-in-America pocket watches and combines its expertise in metal 3D printing to create new “antique” parts for bespoke wristwatches that can continue to tick for more generations to come.
The company is just moving into a new 8,400-square-foot manufacturing facility in Colorado and works with US suppliers as much as possible. In fact, some of its 3D printing is done in New Jersey, while sourcing is done throughout the country.
Among its most recent releases: the Chicago 009 watch with Elgin origins. The original, now-restored, manual-wind Elgin movement inside this watch was built in 1898 in America by Elgin.
The dial is also original, and the hands are from a vintage pocket watch made between the 1880’s and 1950’s by Elgin.
The machined titanium case with open back replicates the original. Prices of Vortic watches vary depending on the model, but most can be found in the $3,000 to $5,000 range.
Jason Wilbur
Once the creative designer for American brand Devon, Jason Wilbur has had his own Wilbur brand of watches for a few years now.
The three-dimensional, almost space-age-looking watches boast multi-part (about nine pieces) cases and auto-inspired colors.
It makes sense since Wilbur has designed everything from concept cars unveiled by Honda to an award-winning oceanic research drone.
A California native, Wilbur headquarters his workshops in Southern California where the design, research, assembly and finishing takes place.
His newest piece, expected to be out in Fall, is the Wilbur EXP (experimental) watch.
Offered in Battleship Gray steel, bright blue ceramic and steel, or in ceramic, titanium, gold and steel, the watches are deigned to be “Daily Drivers.”
Their movements look as though they are suspended within the case and boast a highly sculptural appeal.
While they house the Swiss-made Sellita movement that is modified and regulated in house by Wilbur, the watches are assembled and designed in America – with retail prices in the $7,000 range.
Brew Watches
Founded in 2015, the young independent brand was the brainchild of Jonathan Ferrer, whose background is in industrial design and who has a passion for watchmaking and coffee breaks.
With workshops located in New Jersey, Brew was actually first designed in a café. It has since come to be known as a well-designed, creative watch for people who enjoy everyday comfort and quality. Brew is all about the details.
Every watch is CNC machined out of solid 316L stainless steel and individually hand polished.
Highly contemporary, the watches are designed to capture the attention of those who are young at heart.
Among the most recent introductions is the Metric Chronograph watch with round dial inside a cushion-cornered case with bold and colorful accents on the black dial.
It is powered by a hybrid Meca-Quartz chronograph movement. The cushion-cornered square Technicolor Retrograph (retro-inspired chronograph) is also a fan favorite.
These watch retail for around $375, to $400.
Kobold Watch
Michael Kobold, a mountain climber and explorer, found himself in a near-death experience at Mt. Everest and credits local Sherpas for saving his life.
His story is legendary, and as a result of their heroic actions, he trained several Sherpas in the art of watchmaking and opened a store in Nepal.
He became deeply involved in the Nepal culture and has even organized The Nepal Fire Truck Expedition to bring help to the region.
Currently, there is a bright red digital watch for sale by Kobold to benefit the cause of bringing one American fire engine to Nepal each time and organizing a land expedition with it.
Supporters of the cause also can receive a $250 credit toward the purchase of Kobold accessories.
Kobold suffered several setbacks in business between 2013-2018, but is now back on track with chronographs, dive watches and more.
As of 2021, timepieces from this trailblazing company are again in the forefront.
One of the newest is the Kobold Phantom SL Chronograph in polished titanium with a skeletonized chronograph movement.
All created and assembled in Pennsylvania.
Watches retail from about $3,500 to just over $20,000 with 18-karat gold versions and specialty pieces selling for more.
Shinola
Named for the famous American slogan that originated in World War II, “You don’t know shite from Shinola,” this lifestyle watch brand was founded in 2011 by Tom Kartsotis (of Fossil fame).
His desire was to restore Detroit and he opened an assembly manufacturing facility there. While the watch movements and parts come from other countries (Japan, Switzerland, etc.), the watches are assembled in Detroit and have helped raise the concept of American made.
Shinola markets itself as an American revivalist and the company supports a number of community projects in the Great Lakes area including the recent Chicago Yacht Club Race to Mackinac, one of the world’s largest annual offshore regattas, for which it produced the brightly colored Mackinac Yacht Watch Automatic Chronograph.
Kobold got greedy and arrogant and became irrelevant as he priced himself out of existence with knuckleheaded propaganda ads instead of the sound business practice of making good watches at appropriate prices. So, what’s he doing now? Turns out the same thing as before. Lots of luck with that!