A curious phenomenon has emerged in the world of horology over the past two decades: the rise of the microbrand. These diminutive watchmakers, often operating with skeleton crews, have carved out a niche in an industry long dominated by venerable Swiss houses and multinational conglomerates.
The microbrand movement, born in the early noughties, has flourished in the fertile soil of the internet age. These burgeoning upstarts have harnessed the power of ecommerce to bypass traditional retail channels; delivering their wares directly to the wrists of consumers.
By eschewing brick-and-mortar overheads and embracing a lean business model, they’ve managed to offer timepieces that punch well above their weight in terms of quality and value.
Social media platforms and online forums have become their R&D departments, allowing for unprecedented levels of customer engagement. This direct line of communication enables microbrands to rapidly iterate on designs, responding to feedback with an agility that would make larger companies green with envy
What sets these horological minnows apart is their commitment to small-scale production. Unlike their mass-market counterparts, microbrands typically produce watches in limited quantities, ensuring a level of exclusivity that appeals to collectors and enthusiasts alike. This approach allows for meticulous quality control and fosters a sense of intimacy between brand and customer that larger manufacturers struggle to replicate.
The microbrand phenomenon represents a democratisation of luxury watchmaking. By leveraging modern manufacturing techniques and direct-to-consumer sales, these companies have made high-quality timepieces accessible to a broader audience. They offer an alternative to the often-inflated prices of luxury-tier watches despite frequently utilising the same manufacturing facilities.
In an industry where tradition often reigns supreme, microbrands have emerged as the enfants terribles. Nimble upstarts are rewriting the rules of design, challenging the status quo with a boldness that has left many established brands looking staid by comparison. The ethos is one of independence and design freedom.
The secret to their innovative prowess lies in their unfettered approach to creativity. Unburdened by decades of heritage or the weight of shareholder expectations, microbrand designers are free to let their imaginations run wild. This creative liberty has given birth to timepieces that might never have seen the light of day in the boardrooms of Geneva or Glashütte.
Perhaps most striking is the way these maverick watchmakers have tapped into niche markets. Where larger manufacturers might baulk at the idea of producing a watch for, say, deep-sea welders or Antarctic explorers, microbrands gleefully embrace such challenges. The result is a cornucopia of highly specialised timepieces that cater to the most esoteric of tastes.
In their quest for distinction, microbrands have also breathed new life into traditional watchmaking techniques.
Handmade enamel dials from the likes of Glasgow-based AnOrdain and other artisanal skills were once the preserve of high-end luxury timepieces. Now the are finding their way onto the wrists of a broader audience thanks to independents.
Many have forged partnerships with artists, designers, and brands from entirely different industries, resulting in timepieces that are as much wearable art as they are functional instruments.
Of course, this innovative approach is not without its risks. For every microbrand success story, there are countless others that have fallen by the wayside, their bold designs failing to find an audience. Yet it is precisely this willingness to take risks that makes microbrands such a vibrant force in the world of watches.
As brands have proliferated, they’ve begun to blur the lines between ‘micro’ and ‘independent’ — if such a line can be drawn with any permanence.
Some, like Farer and Christopher Ward, have grown beyond their humble origins, evolving into more established entities whilst retaining their independent spirit.
Others steadfastly maintain their small-scale operations, preferring to remain true to their roots.
Twelve Microbrand Watchmakers to Watch
Anoma
Founded by Matteo Violet Vianello, who previously worked with specialist haute horlogerie watch platform A Collected Man, Anoma has made a striking debut with its inaugural timepiece, the A1.
This microbrand takes its name from ‘anomaly,’ reflecting its mission to challenge the status quo. The A1’s design, inspired by a 1950s table by French architect Charlotte Perriand, features a unique rounded triangular profile, setting it apart from conventional watch shapes.
The sculptural stainless-steel case measures 39mm by 38mm (yet wears notably smaller) and is just 9.45mm thick. Its two-tone lacquered blue dial echoes the case’s geometry, creating a harmonious visual flow. Powered by a reliable Sellita SW100 automatic movement, the A1 balances performance with accessibility.
Priced at £1,300, the A1 is within reach of many enthusiasts. Pre-orders were open for a month, with delivery scheduled for January 2025.
The first 100 watches (now sold out) will be individually numbered, adding exclusivity. Anoma promises the A1 will never be replicated, making it a true collector’s item. Anoma’s innovative approach, drawing on mid-20th century design rather than traditional watchmaking, marks it as a brand to watch.
The A1 is a promising debut, heralding a fresh direction in horology.
Anoma A1, £1,300
Atelier Wen
Founded in 2018, Atelier Wen is the brainchild of Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron and is making waves with its audacious blend of Chinese aesthetics and Swiss precision.
The brand’s name itself is a testament to this fusion: ‘atelier’, the French word for workshop, paired with ‘wen’, a Chinese character denoting culture and sophistication.
Atelier Wen’s timepieces are a visual feast, incorporating elements from traditional Chinese architecture and art. Yet, beneath these beguiling exteriors tick reliable Chinese movements, challenging the notion that quality must come with a Swiss heartbeat.
Their debut collection, Porcelain Odyssey, was launched with a Kickstarter campaign that hit its funding goal in just 30 minutes. The watches were met with such enthusiasm that they promptly sold out.
After a period of reflection, Tallendier and Buiron resumed their horological odyssey, unveiling Perception in 2022, which saw its pre-order allocation exhausted in 16 hours, a testament to the brand’s burgeoning appeal.
In an industry often criticised for its conservatism, Atelier Wen’s approach is refreshingly bold. By producing limited runs and selling directly to consumers, they’ve carved out a niche that appeals to horological adventurers seeking something truly unique.
As the watch world continues to evolve, brands like Atelier Wen remind us that innovation often comes from unexpected quarters.
Atelier Wen. Perception, £2,610
Brew Watch Co.
The creation of Jonathan Ferrer, Brew Watch Co. has been percolating since 2015, infusing the watch industry with a refreshing jolt of caffeine-inspired creativity.
Ferrer’s timepieces are a far cry from your average wrist-worn fare. Drawing inspiration from the timing and industrial aesthetics of espresso machines, each watch is a carefully crafted blend of retro charm and modern sensibility.
Among the brand’s standouts is the Metric Black and Gold Carbon chronograph, a refreshing throwback to the 1970s. The compact 36mm case, a masterclass in retro chic, eschews modern extravagance in favour of understated elegance.
Its blend of forged carbon, blackened steel and gold PVD elements creates a captivating interplay of light and shadow, evoking the industrial aesthetic of its inspirational decade. Its versatility is noteworthy; equally at home peeking out from beneath a crisp cuff or adorning a bare arm on more casual occasions.
Ferrer’s hands-on approach extends beyond design; he’s often found engaging with customers on social media. Avoiding traditional retail channels, Brew Watch Co. has embraced the direct-to-consumer model, allowing it to serve up high-quality watches at prices that won’t leave one’s wallet feeling over-extracted.
This approach has struck a chord with horological aficionados seeking something beyond the usual fare.
Brew Watch Co Metric – Black & Gold Carbon, £388
Brew Watch Co is appearing at this year’s WatchPro Salon at the Londoner Hotel on Leicester Square from November 1-2.
CLICK FOR WATCHPRO SALON TICKETS
Duckworth Prestex
Among a sea of new brands, one venerable British name has re-emerged, bringing with it a century of heritage. Duckworth Prestex, a brand with roots stretching back to Bolton in the 1920s, has been resurrected by Neil Duckworth, grandson of the original founder.
Duckworth — no stranger to the watch world having introduced TAG Heuer to British shores in the 1980s — has breathed new life into this dormant marque. His vision? To craft timepieces that are at once practical, affordable, and innovative; a rare triumvirate in today’s market.
Drawing inspiration from original Prestex models, these modern interpretations pay homage to their forebears whilst catering to contemporary tastes. From the elegant Verimatic Fumé to the robust Chronograph 42, each piece is a testament to British design sensibility.
What sets Duckworth Prestex apart is its commitment to its roots. Every watch is designed on English soil by Duckworth himself, a refreshing departure from the Swiss-dominated landscape. Yet, this nod to tradition doesn’t come at the expense of quality. Each timepiece uses high-grade materials and movements, backed by a reassuring two-year warranty.
In an industry often fixated on branded luxury, Duckworth Prestex offers a compelling alternative: watches that honour Britain’s horological heritage whilst remaining accessible to the discerning masses.
Duckworth Prestex California 24 Limited Edition, £675
Duckworth Prestex is appearing at this year’s WatchPro Salon at the Londoner Hotel on Leicester Square from November 1-2.
CLICK FOR WATCHPRO SALON TICKETS
Fears
Another British brand emerging from the annals of history to reclaim its place on discerning wrists is Fears, a name that graced the dials of timepieces for 130 years until its quiet demise in 1976. But, in 2016, it was resurrected with aplomb by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, great-great-great-grandson of founder Edwin Fear.
Bowman-Scargill has breathed new life into the family legacy with a vision of crafting watches that embody the understated elegance of British design, marrying traditional aesthetics with modern demands.
The Brunswick, Fears’ flagship mechanical offering, stands as a testament to this philosophy. Its clean lines and versatile aesthetic make it equally at home for both dressy and casual occasions.
While some components are sourced internationally, each Fears timepiece is lovingly designed and assembled on British soil, a nod to the country’s rich horological heritage. Production remains deliberately limited, ensuring exclusivity for those fortunate enough to secure one.
In a market often fixated on ostentation, Fears offers a refreshing alternative: watches that whisper rather than shout, their quiet confidence a reflection of the individuals who wear them. It’s a timely reminder that true British style never goes out of fashion.
Fears Brunswick 40 Flamingo Pink, £3,750
Halios
A highly regarded independent watch brand based in Vancouver, Canada and founded in 2009 by Jason Lim, a lifelong watch enthusiast, Halios has carved out a niche for itself in the world of microbrands with its meticulously designed and well-built timepieces.
The company’s philosophy revolves around three key principles: offering quality, water-ready watches; exceeding expectations in after-sales support; and striving to design the next iconic piece.
Primarily known for its dive watches, with models such as the Puck, Tropik, Laguna, and the particularly popular Seaforth, more recently, the brand has ventured into general sports watches with offerings like the Fairwind and Universa, which showcase a more refined build quality and a shift towards smaller case sizes.
The brand’s watches are characterised by their exceptional value for money, often punching well above their weight in terms of design, build quality, and finishing. This has led to many Halios models holding their value or even commanding premiums on the secondary market.
Production runs are deliberately small, which ensures stringent quality control but also means that new releases often sell out within minutes. The watches are assembled and undergo final quality checks in Vancouver, though components are sourced from various international suppliers.
Halios Seaforth IV, USD$735.
Horage
Horage, founded 15 years ago in the horological heartland of Biel/Bienne, has dared to take on the established order of its gigantic neighbours (Rolex and Swatch Group) with a blend of innovation and accessibility.
The company has invested heavily in research and development, resulting in a suite of in-house movements and patents that many eye with envy.
The flagship K1 automatic calibre and the more recent K-TOU tourbillon stand as testament to the company’s technical prowess. Arguably the jewel in Horage’s crown is the Lensman 2, the result of a partnership between the brand and the legendary British photographer Brian Griffin, who sadly died earlier this year.
Introducing a horological first, the Lensman 2 includes an “exposure calculator” bezel, ready to assist in the delicate dance of aperture and shutter speed that Griffin mastered over decades.
The brand’s timepieces, with their modern aesthetic and technical underpinnings, have found favour among enthusiasts who appreciate both form and function. From time-only pieces to more complex GMT and tourbillon models, each watch is assembled with typical Swiss precision.
Yet, in a refreshing departure from industry norms, Horage has turned its back on eye-watering price tags in favour of what they term ‘smart luxury’.
Horage Lensman 2 Brian Griffin Edition, CHF 6,450.
Horage is appearing at this year’s WatchPro Salon from November 1-2.
CLICK FOR WATCHPRO SALON TICKETS
Isotope
Isotope, founded in 2016 by graphic designer José Miranda, has swiftly carved out a niche with its distinctive timepieces that challenge conventional watch aesthetics. Miranda’s creations are a breath of fresh air in an industry often accused of taking itself too seriously.
Bold, asymmetrical dials and the brand’s signature ‘lacrima’ or teardrop shape serve as instant identifiers, setting Isotope apart from more traditional competitors.
Each Isotope offering is imbued with a sense of whimsy. The Hydrium series, for instance, reimagines the classic diver with a dial that appears to have been dipped in water – a playful nod to its aquatic aspirations.
The latest watch, made in collaboration with Revolution magazine, is the Mercury Limited Edition, a 150-piece collection with the world’s first mirror-polished convex dial.
et, this creativity doesn’t come at the expense of horological credibility. Isotope uses respected Swiss and Japanese movements, ensuring that performance matches appearance.
In a market where familiarity often reigns supreme, Isotope’s approach is refreshingly iconoclastic. It’s a timely reminder that in watchmaking, as in life, there’s always room for the unexpected.
Isotope x Revolution Mercury, £2,388.
Mr Jones Watches
While the Swiss horology giants may dominate in terms of stoic precision, one British brand definitely rules the roost when it comes to the world of whimsical watches.
Mr Jones Watches, founded in London by graphic designer Crispin Jones, has been turning heads with its playful approach to timekeeping since 2007.
Mr Jones has carved out a niche with its quirky, artistic timepieces that challenge conventional notions of how a watch should look and function. The brand’s creations are a far cry from the austere faces of traditional watchmaking. Each piece tells a story, often with a dash of humour or social commentary. From a watch that reminds wearers of their mortality reminding them that “you will die” to models that encourage us to enjoy the moment, Mr Jones timepieces are conversation starters par excellence.
Despite their whimsical appearance, these watches don’t skimp on quality.
Assembled in London using a mix of Swiss and Japanese movements, they offer reliability alongside their distinctive designs.
Limited edition collaborations with artists further cement the brand’s position at the intersection of horology and art. In a market often accused of taking itself too seriously, Mr Jones Watches offers a refreshing alternative. It’s a timely reminder that watches can do more than just tell the time – they can make us smile, think, and perhaps see the world a little differently.
Mr Jones Watches Mispoes!, £225.
Sherpa Watches
In a space awash with horological homages, Sherpa Watches stands apart as a brand that not only revives the past but imbues it with spiritual significance.
Founded by Swiss engineer Martin Klocke, this newcomer to the watch industry has swiftly garnered attention for its meticulous recreation of the iconic Enicar Sherpa timepieces of the 1960s. Klocke’s dedication to authenticity is evident in every aspect of his creations.
The Sherpa OPS and Ultradive models boast true compressor technology, a rarity in modern watchmaking. Yet, it is the ‘Mantramatic’ movement that truly sets these timepieces apart. Each watch houses Tibetan Buddhist prayer wheels, turning mantras with every tick.
A percentage of each watch sale is donated to a charitable organisation in the Sherpa area in Nepal. “Because we chose to use [the Sherpa] name as a brand, and thus profit from their reputation, we believe that we should give something back,” says Klocke.
Despite the brand’s youth, Sherpa Watches has positioned itself firmly in the luxury market, with prices ranging from £5,000 to £6,000.
This bold strategy reflects Klocke’s commitment to European craftsmanship and ethical production. Whilst some may baulk at the price point for a fledgling brand, others will appreciate the fusion of horological heritage, modern engineering and spiritual ethos.
Sherpa OPS, €6,200.
Toledano & Chan
Toledano & Chan is an exciting new watch brand founded by artist Phil Toledano and watch designer Alfred Chan. Their debut timepiece, the B/1, is a striking and unconventional watch that draws inspiration from 1970s sculptural design and brutalist architecture.
The B/1 has a stainless-steel case measuring 33.5mm wide with an angled design that varies in thickness from 9.1mm to 10.4mm. It is worn on an integrated bracelet crafted from 904L stainless steel, a material known for its superior corrosion resistance.
The dial is made of lapis lazuli, ensuring that each piece is unique. At the heart of the B/1 is a Sellita SW100 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve. The watch is water resistant to 5 ATM and the destroy design features a left-hand crown placement.
Its asymmetrical case has a dramatic bevel on the right side complemented by sharp dauphine hands. In keeping with its architectural inspiration, the B/1 comes packaged in a hand-made concrete box that echoes the case shape of the watch itself, further emphasising the brand’s commitment to a cohesive, brutalist, design aesthetic.
Toledano & Chan has limited the first edition of the B/1 to 175 numbered pieces, making it a collectible item.
The watch aims to offer a unique, design-forward timepiece at a relatively accessible price point compared to many independent watchmakers. The B/1’s design philosophy focuses on creating a unified sculptural form, where the case, bracelet and overall aesthetics work together harmoniously.
Toledano & Chan The B/1, £3,134
William Wood Watches
British indie William Wood Watches has carved out a unique niche in the luxury timepiece market since launching in 2017. Named after the founder’s grandfather, a decorated firefighter, the brand ingeniously incorporates genuine upcycled firefighting materials into its designs.
Each watch tells a story, featuring crowns crafted from melted-down century-old brass firefighter’s helmets and straps fashioned from decommissioned fire hoses.
William Wood offers several distinct collections, such as the Valiant dive watches, the Bronze heritage dive pieces, the Triumph chronographs and the Chivalrous dress watches. As well as the main collections, there are also a number of special editions including the Dunkirk, which incorporates pieces of the Massey Shaw fireboat’s engine in each timepiece.
This limited series commemorates the vessel’s role in the 1940 Dunkirk evacuation codenamed Operation Dynamo.
The watches have garnered attention for their distinctive aesthetics and charitable contributions – over £123,000 donated to firefighting charities to date – and William Wood Watches has ignited interest globally, boasting customers in over 50 countries.
The brand’s success perhaps lies less in technical specifications, and more in its ability to weave a compelling narrative around each timepiece. As the luxury watch market becomes increasingly saturated, William Wood’s novel approach serves as a beacon of innovation.
William Wood Dunkirk Watch, £3,995.
