Chronoswiss’ latest release sees the brand back in black.
The Open Gear ReSec Black Ice is a modern mechanical timepiece with influences from historical watchmaking and a reminder that black, according to those behind the brand, can have a near-infinite number of shades, depending on surface, texture and materials.
Commenting on the result, Chronoswiss designer Maik Panziera, said: “This watch is like fifty shades of black, and the different blacks really contrast each other thanks to the different structures, finishes and coatings.”
Adding: “Some surfaces are much darker than others; despite the monochrome palette they almost appear like different colours.”
Some of the strongest optical effects come from DLC coating, which is used both on the black matt 44-millimetre case and the polished screws securing the bridges.
The bridge holding the 30-second retrograde function – a modern version of a 17th-century invention – is sandblasted with a black galvanisation.
The see-through back sapphire gives a view of the automatic C.301 movement with 42 hours of power reserve and stop seconds.
The rotor is galvanised black, skeletonised and adorned with côtes de Genève.
Panziera adds: “When I was designing this watch, I was listening to heavy metal all day long, especially the Black Ice album by AC/DC. That’s where the model name comes from.” laughs Panziera.
The C.301 movement is a serious rebuild of a classical movement. As on all Chronoswiss Open Gear regulators, the dial is a hybrid, also serving as a module plate holding the bridges, screws, wheels and jewels – an elaborate 42-part construction on two levels.
The upper level features screwed-on skeletonised train wheel bridges and a funnel-like hour display.
Circumnavigating the sparkly dial, the central minute hand is icicle shaped – a unique Chronoswiss design called Trigono.
This will be the first time a Chronoswiss timepiece will be presented on a stable hand-stitched neoprene band with a leather base.
It is securely fastened to the curved lugs with the patented Autobloc system, which makes it nearly impossible for the screws to come out on their own. And to further comply with modern standards the water resistance is 10 bar.
Panziera concludes: “The new band is very comfortable to wear – and the appearance of the neoprene complements the matt, sandblasted case. Overall, the modern mechanical Open Gear Black Ice makes a stealthy impression – calm and understated.”