The Only Watch charity auction, which raises money for Muscular Dystrophy research, takes place in Geneva on November 11.
Here, and in linked articles, WatchPro features unique watches created specially for the sale by the world’s leading watchmakers. The auction is being managed and run by Christie’s, which will accept bids both in the saleroom and online.
LOUIS VUITTON
ESCALE SPIN TIME BLACK & FIRE
Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 80,000
The hypnotic “Black & Fire” Escale Spin Time incorporates the ingenious hour display principle of the Spin Time movement in the Escale case. A reflection of the unique expertise of the watchmakers and dialmakers at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, this dial boasts an exceptional finish and features an array of warm and vibrant shades of orange. Positioned in the centre of the sapphire crystal, a disk in the same colours – bearing the inscription “Louis Vuitton Only Watch” – evokes the shape of a stylised globe, continuing in the Louis Vuitton tradition of world travel. A trunk in Ardoise Taiga leather accompanies this timepiece, with a printed leather patch that represents the globe featured in the centre of the dial.
EXPERIENCE
In addition, the trunk of this unique Louis Vuitton timepiece will be personalized according to the owner’s wishes. There will also be an organized visit of the historic workshop in Asnières, followed by a lunch at the Louis Vuitton family house with Michel Navas (Master Watchmaker) and Hamdi Chatti (Vice-President Louis Vuitton).
MAURICE LACROIX
AIKON AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH
Estimate: CHF 3,500 – 4,500
Icons are hard to come by. Maurice Lacroix made that dream come true for itself with the Calyspo, a quartz watch that became a staple of 1990’s watchmaking. In 2016, Maurice Lacroix reinvented that iconic watch. Now renamed Aikon, it has been profoundly redesigned to become a thing of the definite present. Sharp, modern, its undeniable charisma and careful finishings have made it an instant best-seller. Building on that success, the Aikon range is entering a new phase.
For Only Watch 2017, Maurice Lacroix introduces the Aikon Automatic Chronograph. It paves the way for a new set of developments. From now on, Aikon will be fitted with automatic movements, in addition to quartz. Black and dark gray, with bright yellow highlights in reference to the colors of Only Watch 2017, it shows both matte and polished surfaces. Its intense outline, its masculine and sporty outlook, the pattern on its dial and obviously high level of finishings bode well for this momentous timepiece.
MB&F
HOROLOGICAL MACHINE N°8 ONLY WATCH
Estimate: CHF 80,000 – 100,000
Dive into the imaginary world of children with the HM8 Only Watch created by MB&F with the young artist Cassandra Legendre. Based on Horological Machine N°8, this Pièce Unique in 18K white gold and grade 5 titanium is instantly recognisable thanks to its special sapphire crystal pane – engraved and metallised with a whimsical drawing created by the talented 15-year old Cassandra.
Visible under the doodle, the automatic HM8 engine features a unique purple winding rotor. Check the lateral time display and you’ll notice a miniature white gold elephant situated between the hour and minute prism; the elephant was sculpted by engraver Olivier Kuhn based on the elephant in Cassandra’s drawing Final touch: the MB&F logo on the double-screwed plate has been replaced by a happy face – symbolising the childlike perspective that Legendre brings to HM8.
COLLABORATION
The base of this pièce unique is Horological Machine N°8, an automotive-inspired creation that takes design cues from the legendary high-octane Can-Am race. Engraved and metallised on the sapphire crystal pane that surmounts the HM8 engine is a whimsical doodle created by 15-year-old Cassandra Legendre.
A student currently living in Madrid, Legendre’s primary method of artistic expression is ballet, not these drawings which she produces in her spare time. As an exception for MB&F’s contribution to Only Watch, Legendre and her family agreed to this one-off participation to strengthen the message of HM8 Only Watch — a child creating something to help children who have been denied many of the dreams and opportunities of childhood.
MCT
S200 VANTABLACK
Estimate: CHF 70,000 – 120,000
MCT Watches is pleased to be able to combine both creativity and expertise to stand for a specific cause.
Representing an authentic scientific revolution, Vantablack is composed of carbon nanotubes measuring one millionth of a millimeter thick each and capable of absorbing 99.965 per cent of the light they receive.
Used on the back dial as well as on one end of the minutes hand, shaped like a small moon, Vantablack reveals its incredible properties. The movement appears to be suspended in mid-air, while the small moon appears and disappears as if by magic during its rotation around the dial.
Derived from the Sequential Two –S200, this only Watch limited edition is equipped with the original automatic Manufacture movement with its 507 components including 85 jewels, as well as the brand’s sequential display of the hours on prisms. The case of the Sequential One –S200 Vantablack is forged from black DLC-coated gold. Each watch is signed by Anish Kapoor.
“MCT Watches is pleased to be able to combine both creativity and expertise to take a stand for a good cause.” CEO, Pierre Jacques.
COLLABORATION
The S200 Vantablack stems from an encounter between Anish Kapoor and MCT Watches starring this high-tech material with its extremely strange properties.
For several months, MCT Watches worked hand in hand with the artist in order to give shape to a mysterious and fascinating watch.
Initially developed for the military and aerospace industry, Vantablack soon caught Anish Kapoor’s interest. As the artist explains, “it’s the blackest material in the universe, after a black hole; a physical object that is impossible to see”. “When we found out about Vantablack, we were instantly spell bound by the unreal beauty, the depth and the dizzying power of the effect it creates.” said Pierre Jacques, CEO of MCT Watches.
1858 CHRONOGRAPH TACHYMETER UNIQUE PIECE ONLY WATCH ’17
Estimate: CHF 28,000 – 35,000Montblanc’s watchmaking expertise goes back to 1858, the year Minerva was founded in Villeret, Switzerland. Since its inception, the Manufacture has been renowned as one of Switzerland’s most revered specialists in chronometric functions for precise time measuring. Over the last decade, Montblanc has been exploring Minerva’s incredible heritage, finding inspiration in historical functions, mechanics and design codes.
Inspired by the famous Minerva chronographs from the 1930s, the Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Unique Piece Only Watch’17 continues this horological journey by capturing all the spirit of Montblanc’s past in a contemporary way. Paying tribute to the Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Blue Limited Edition 100 which won the Grand Prix d’horlogerie of Geneva 2016 as the best Chronograph, this timepiece features the monopusher chronograph calibre MB M16.29, a bronze case combined for the first time with a vintage green dial and matching green alligator strap.
“Montblanc is pleased to contribute a timepiece to Only Watch to help further research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy and those those suffering from this illness all over the world,” shares Nicolas Baretzki, Montblanc CEO.
ATUM “HOMAGE”
Estimate: CHF 40,000 – 60,000
Moritz Grossmann presents a double lot, linking contemporary design with heritage.
Firstly, in homage to our roots, we offer an original Moritz Grossmann pocket-watch from our private collection.
Made around 1875, this piece showcases Glashütte’s history. Moritz Grossmann signature features such as chatoned movement, chronometer balance with diamond endstone, 16-tooth escape wheel, Grossmann handsetting rocker, Maltese cross stopwork on mainspring barrel make it a collectors’ item.
Secondly, we have crafted its twin. An enamel dial and blue-steel poire hands to match the original are fitted in a rose gold ATUM case with our calibre 100.1 movement – designed and built in-house meeting Moritz Grossmann’s passion for simple precision. It includes the Grossmann balance, modified Glashütte stopwork and pillar movement reminiscent of traditional pocket chronometers. Contemporary styling, a historic face and our impeccable hand-made finish creates a watch to tell a story as well as tell the time.
EXPERIENCE
A pilgrimage for collectors: accept an invitation to visit the legendary town of Glashütte as our guest.
Stay overnight and dine with us in Dresden, then spend the next day in Saxony. Tour the amazing museum that once housed the German School of Watchmaking, established by Moritz Grossmann in 1878. Witness the incredible care we take to hand-make our pieces today. Appreciate our collection. And understand the spirit –traditional and contemporary – that we put into every piece, each day.
PATEK PHILIPPE
REFERENCE 5208T-010
Estimate: CHF 900,000 – 1,100,000
Launched in 2011, the Reference 5208 Triple Complication wristwatch showcases Patek Philippe’s mastery in the sphere of grand complication watches. It brings together a minute repeater, a monopusher chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar displayed in apertures along an arc. This is also one of very few ultra-complicated watches endowed with a self-winding mechanism. Orchestrating this highly sophisticated combination of functions is a movement comprising 719 parts, hand-finished throughout in accordance with the great Genevan tradition.
Reference 5208T-010 was created specially for Only Watch 2017. It stands out as the first and only version of this timepiece ever produced in titanium, a metal rarely used for a Patek Philippe. This unique piece features a blue dial adorned with a hand-guilloched carbon-fiber pattern, underlining the manufacture’s role as protector of the rare handcrafts. The caliber R CH 27 PS QI movement, visible through a sapphire-crystal display back, also presents a distinctive finish with the entire movement being black rhodium-plated. The platinum micro-rotor is hand-guilloché with the same decoration as the dial. A blue Cordura strap echoes the dial color.
EXPERIENCE – A PATEK PHILIPPE DAY
In addition to the exquisite and unique timepiece, PATEK PHILIPPE will also offer a very unique experience for two privileged guests : Visit of the workshops, private lunch with Thierry Stern, President, visit of the museum and/or salons.
PIAGET
BLACK TIE VINTAGE WATCH
Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 50,000
Back in the 1950s Piaget created a very distinctive watchcase that defied conventions with its unique cushion-shape. It was later owned by Andy Warhol, emblematic and cultural figure of an era. In 2014, for the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris, Piaget paid tribute to its daring spirit by recreating three timepieces with hardstone dials, creatively revisiting its heritage to create a contemporary look.
For the seventh edition of Only Watch, Piaget introduces a yellow gold Black Tie Vintage Inspiration piece with the same aesthetic codes but featuring a hard stone dial in brown pietersite that recalls this year’s color theme. Known as the Tempest Stone with its highly charged energy, Pietersite is a powerful protection stone, especially against the elements. A special “Only Watch 2017 – Unique Piece” engraving on the back of case reaffirms the uniqueness of this elegant creation.
“For this creation, the maison has taken inspiration from an iconic era that powerfully expresses the Piaget look, a style that continues to exercise an inimitably bold appeal today through the beauty of its unconventional shapes and audacious colours.” – Chabi Nouri, Piaget CEO.
REBELLION
PREDATOR 2.0 REGULATOR POWER RESERVE SÉBASTIEN BUEMI EDITION FOR ONLY WATCH
Estimate: CHF 37,500 – 55,000
The Predator 2.0 Regulator Power Reserve displays its legacy with a design that blends watchmaking history and racecar aesthetics. This exclusive timepiece has been created in partnership with REBELLION Timepieces ambassador and world champion racing driver Sebastien Buemi and will be auctioned with a pair of his signed racing gloves.
Under the hood of this exceptional timepiece is a regulator movement. The modern hands are independent, thus providing an unconventional, destructed display. The dashboard reveals two counters for the hours and minutes. A large central hand – light and sporty – is dedicated to the seconds. The 3D architecture reveals the date at 4 o’clock while a gauge indicates the power reserve of the automatic movement at 6 o’clock. Manufactured with high-tech racing materials, like compressed carbon fiber, and decorated with Sebastien Buemi’s lucky color, yellow, it offers a generous 46 hours of power reserve; a genuine tribute to endurance racing.
EXPERIENCE
This one-off piece was designed by FIA World Endurance Champion and REBELLION Timepieces ambassador, Sébastien Buemi. He has made it unique by modifying the carbon fiber case to include flecks of his lucky color, yellow.
In addition to the one-off watch design, Buemi will be driving for the REBELLION Racing team at Petit Le Mans on 7 October 2017 in a car specially decorated for Only Watch. Petit Le Mans is a 10-hour endurance race that takes place on the 2.54 mi (4.088km) Road Atlanta track, located just outside of Atlanta Georgia in the USA.
RESSENCE
TYPE 12OW
Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 24,000
RESSENCE in collaboration with HODINKEE is presenting a one-off TYPE 12 with open dial and sintered case. The timepiece symbolizes the work in progress that is the fight against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD). The different layers of the case, that represent the various milestones towards a solution, were only made possible by the sintering technique. A first in the history of fine-watchmaking. Sintering is the process of compacting and forming a solid mass of material by laser heat.
As a symbol of optimism for the research into DMD, hints of green – the colour of hope – were added on the dial indexes.
The TYPE 12OW “Only Watch” sub-dials continually revolve, as does the main disc into which they are set – like moons in orbit around a planet. Furthermore, a lever on the case-back replaces the familiar crown for a more instinctive setup/winding process.
Founded in 2008, HODINKEE has established itself as the preeminent resource for modern and vintage wristwatch enthusiasts around the world.
