Q&A: Nomos Glashütte CEO Uwe Ahrendt

Nomos Glashütte has unveiled its Lux and Lambda models, which the watchmaker has called a “new league of NOMOS”. Here Nomos Glashütte CEO Uwe Ahrendt gives further insight.

How do these watches differ from the current portfolio?
Uwe Ahrendt:
The two new models are very Nomos. They marry an understated timeless design with the watchmaking craftsmanship and tradition from Glashütte Germany. However, they take everything Nomos Glashütte does to the top: the cases are made from 18ct white gold or rose gold respectively. So are the buckle clasps. Like on our other watches the straps are Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan—but with even better detailing: hand stitched, cambered and rembordé.

Still, the highlights are our two new in-house calibres. They feature Glashütte watchmaking art and tradition in its finest form: a unique fine sunbeam polishing, swan neck fine adjustment, a screw balance adjusted in six positions, jewels set in screwed gold chatons, and a hand-engraved balance cock, that states what these watches are about: ‘Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt’ (meaning ‘lovingly produced in Glashütte’).

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They are the first two Nomos movements that run under the ‘DUW-Deutsche Uhrenwerke Nomos Glashütte’ denomination. Lambda features DUW 1001—a movement with twin mainspring barrels and power reserve mechanism. Lux features DUW 2002—a tonneau shape movement with twin mainspring barrels. Both movements enable a longer 84 hour power reserve.

With these watches is Nomos Glashütte heading where other key players brands are already positioning themselves?

UA: First of all, when you look at the details, in particular the quality of the movement, there are not that many brands internationally who achieve this level. Secondly, we are not planning to re-position Nomos Glashütte at this more exclusive level. With these new models and movements we wanted to clearly prove what our company and watchmakers are capable of. Furthermore, the quantities of these watches are tiny: we can only build a few per week. So the business focus will remain on our stainless steel models and other in-house built calibres.

The brand will always stay true to its approach of democratic luxury and value for the money. While at a different level, these watches still deliver a lot for UK public prices starting at £11,800 (for Lambda rose gold).

So why all this effort? Just for the fun?
UA:
Yes, partially. The project was initiated by our watchmakers who wanted to showcase their skills. They developed the movements. Our de-sign team and some proven external Nomos partners took up the chal-lenge to design cases, dials, hands, and straps worthy of these extraordi-nary calibres, but still with the Nomos typical look. The result is a signature collection that shows what an independent young manufacture is capable of.

 

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